1993 Arctic Cat 440 L/C -- New Owner Help? - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-08-2019, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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1993 Arctic Cat 440 L/C -- New Owner Help?

Hello all,

I just recently purchased my first snowmobile, so am extremely inexperienced with these pieces of equipment. I've worked with engines, but never a snowmobile.

I'd like to have this up and running by snow seasom, but need to get some work done. The ignition has the key broke off in it, so need to order a new ignition for it (had to use a jumper wire with the harness from the handlebars disconnected). It hasn't been used in awhile, so I am starting by removing the fuel tank to remove the old fuel. I also need to remove the 50:1 injection oil and pick up more. What other fluids should be changed? I also am planning to rebuild and clean the carbs -- what carbs are on this? Also, fuel lines... 1/4 ID?

I was able to start it, but ran very smokey, sort of rough and would die when given throttle (thinking because of old gas).

Other than dumping tank, oil, changing fuel lines and dealing with the carbs, what other things should be done? I'm hoping these issues are what were causing it to run the way it did.

Already having fun removing the seat to access the fuel tank... 1 of the 2 screws in the rear is stripped so now need to find a way to get it out of the cramped space.

Thanks in advance and I am looking forward to learning as much as I can.
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post #2 of 10 Old 07-08-2019, 08:06 AM
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Make sure the carb flanges are not cracked at all. These are the ones between carbs and cylinders. Sucking air through them will result in piston failure. These old sleds will smoke a lot on startup until warm. Donít forget chaincase fluid too.

Current Sled rides
2005 Sabercat 600 EFI LX
2006 T660 Turbo Touring
2016 Bearcat 2000XT

Past Sled rides
1993 Pantera 550 EFI
1980 El Tigre 6000

Current ATV rides
2005 A/C 300 manual 4x4
RTR Bushings & shock bushings
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2003 A/C 400 auto 4x4 FIS
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Motobatt Battery
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Past ATV rides
2003 A/C 400 manual ACT 4x4
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post #3 of 10 Old 07-08-2019, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 660catman View Post
Make sure the carb flanges are not cracked at all. These are the ones between carbs and cylinders. Sucking air through them will result in piston failure. These old sleds will smoke a lot on startup until warm. Don’t forget chaincase fluid too.
Will do. The rubber boots to the airbox are shot, so already redoing those. How do you change the chaincase fluid? Where's the fill/drain port at?
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-08-2019, 05:50 PM
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Inside the tunnel on chaincase side you will see a drain plug. Drain fluid and I would advise taking chaincase cover off and inspecting gears.
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Current Sled rides
2005 Sabercat 600 EFI LX
2006 T660 Turbo Touring
2016 Bearcat 2000XT

Past Sled rides
1993 Pantera 550 EFI
1980 El Tigre 6000

Current ATV rides
2005 A/C 300 manual 4x4
RTR Bushings & shock bushings
Motobatt Battery


2003 A/C 400 auto 4x4 FIS
RTR Steerlites & Shock Bushings
Motobatt Battery
26" Kenda Bearclaw HTR's


Past ATV rides
2003 A/C 400 manual ACT 4x4
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-08-2019, 06:04 PM
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You have a fun sled there. I enjoy the Cat 440's
Is it a Prowler? or another model?
The sled should have Mikuni 36mm carburetors, check the pilot jet for being plugged as well as the other passages in the carbs.
You can tip the sled on its side so the chain case is us up and remove the cover and extract the chain lube and check the condition of the chain at the same time.
Get it running, (sounds like you know it does)
Than there is a plethora of other things to check like shaft bearings and other wear items.
Youtube has a lot of good videos on carburetors and chain cases.
and come back here with more questions. A lot of knowledgeable peeps here willing to help.
Good luck.
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-09-2019, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Inside the tunnel on chaincase side you will see a drain plug. Drain fluid and I would advise taking chaincase cover off and inspecting gears.
Will be sure to do that. To drain it does the sled need to be flat or can it stayed propped up?
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post #7 of 10 Old 07-09-2019, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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You have a fun sled there. I enjoy the Cat 440's
Is it a Prowler? or another model?
The sled should have Mikuni 36mm carburetors, check the pilot jet for being plugged as well as the other passages in the carbs.
You can tip the sled on its side so the chain case is us up and remove the cover and extract the chain lube and check the condition of the chain at the same time.
Get it running, (sounds like you know it does)
Than there is a plethora of other things to check like shaft bearings and other wear items.
Youtube has a lot of good videos on carburetors and chain cases.
and come back here with more questions. A lot of knowledgeable peeps here willing to help.
Good luck.
Yes, it's a Cougar! Is the tubing for the carbs 1/4" or smaller? I also need to change the injection oil, not looking too good. Is that just unbolting the resevoir, disconnecting the tube at the bottom of the reservoir, removing fluid then reconnecting and filling new fluid? I believe I have to bleed air after as well? Also it mentioned putting a 50:1 mix in the gas after changing oil... is this necessary? Need to look at changing the chaincase oil... how difficult of a job is it?
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post #8 of 10 Old 07-09-2019, 06:33 PM
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Can you cut the fuel line and measure the inside? if you measure a used end in may read larger than you want, I do not recall the I.D. of the fuel line. Your sled may have a drain plug in the chain case on the inside of the tunnel. My 90-92s never did. I always got a turkey baster and put a hose on it to drain the bulk of oil if I wanted to change it, though always pulled the cover to check things out. You usually don't need a new gasket for the cover. Do you feel the 2 stroke oil is bad?? Water in the tank?? if no water and you wish to replace it just suck out what you can or unbolt it and tip it over. if you dont have to take the hose off at the bottom dont. fill it up and when you start it put a wire with a hook down on the oil pump arm and hold it up for a bit. yes it will smoke. adding some oil to your gas wont hurt anything, and you dont need a full tank of premix if you do go that route.
You can pick up a e-manual on line for as little as 5 bucks.
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post #9 of 10 Old Today, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xrjak650 View Post
Can you cut the fuel line and measure the inside? if you measure a used end in may read larger than you want, I do not recall the I.D. of the fuel line. Your sled may have a drain plug in the chain case on the inside of the tunnel. My 90-92s never did. I always got a turkey baster and put a hose on it to drain the bulk of oil if I wanted to change it, though always pulled the cover to check things out. You usually don't need a new gasket for the cover. Do you feel the 2 stroke oil is bad?? Water in the tank?? if no water and you wish to replace it just suck out what you can or unbolt it and tip it over. if you dont have to take the hose off at the bottom dont. fill it up and when you start it put a wire with a hook down on the oil pump arm and hold it up for a bit. yes it will smoke. adding some oil to your gas wont hurt anything, and you dont need a full tank of premix if you do go that route.
You can pick up a e-manual on line for as little as 5 bucks.
I'm not sure if I need to replace my fuel lines yet, besides repair one of the overflow tubes (not sure if this is what they are called) that is blocked off that runs off the carb because it is torn. It hasn't been used since '06, just drained gas the other day and it was the color of apple juice. The oil has some debris in it so I figure I should change it. So I can "Turkey baste" all the oil out of the resevoir and fill it back up and be good? Do I still need to lift the lever up and if so for how long? Also how much premix should I put in the tank? I don't need a full tank yet, obviously lol. So I should just run it with premix after changing fluids to get it settled in, then when riding season comes along I can just switch back to pure gas in the tank?
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post #10 of 10 Old Today, 04:55 PM
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Was the cap on the oil reservoir?
If it was and you see stuff in the oil than remove it till you are happy. I cant see it so I dont know.
put 3 gallons of premix fuel 50:1 in your fuel tank. and put the oil in the oil tank. If you pull the lever up for a few minutes should be plenty. look for air in the oil lines if possible. with premix in the tank you are covered no matter what.
Put non ethanol in if you can, and when riding season comes just top off the tank with regular fuel and you will be good to go.
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