Full Version: finishline turbo 2
I found the last new finishline turbo for sale on ebay for $ 3495.00 and was able to talk the guy down to $3000.00 and will have it in a couple of days ,and he is also sending me the info on who built the systems for finishline . I will take photos of the install as i install the turbo kit in the next week and i am going to find out if the company that built the system will build anymore kits as i may try to sell some kits if the system is as good as the guy said that sold it to me i will update soon
please keep us informed...for I to am looking to add one to my Z1...
Did you ever think to trade your sled in and get a Z1 Turbo brand new with a warranty,rather than put $3000.00 plus in a used sled.What ever you decide good luck !
here are some pictures of taken it apart
I thought about trading my sled in , but the factort Z1 Turbo is 177 hp and the kit i got is 225 hp at 7psi of boost on pump gas and i can get more hp (up to 300hp ) with some adjustments and racing fuel. But i did find out today after talking to D&D RACING that you have to do some work to the clutch to get the hp to the ground so i bought a Z1 TURBO HIJACKER CLUTCH KIT from D&D RACING for $455.00 . I can adjust the hp from 180 hp to 260 hp without having to take anything apart again and the kit comes with a extra heavyduty belt ( they said the stock belt would slip and overheat with anything over 200 hp and have a very short life ) the only other things i am going to add is a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge will update soon
what is the compression on the stock N/A motor compared to the stock turbo motor??
The 07 z1 runs 12 to 1 compression and the 09/10 z1 turbos run 9 to 1 compression
Are you also going to fill your track with studs, so you don't just sit and spin like you're on ice?
QUOTE (jdeav1 @ Nov 14 2009, 11:39 PM) 
The 07 z1 runs 12 to 1 compression and the 09/10 z1 turbos run 9 to 1 compression
you will have to lower the n/a motor to nearer the turbo?????
this from another forum,
QUOTE
Why is low compression better for a Turbocharged Engine?
You make horsepower by how much air you move through the motor. A high compression 10:1 engine is more efficient than a 7:1 engine, so the 10:1 engine gives you more bang for the buck. However, because the lower compression is not as efficient, it will move more air through it. So, at 15 PSI of boost, the 7:1 engine will have an effective compression ratio of 14:1, will not be into detonation, and be moving more air, making more horsepower than the same conditions for the 10:1 engine. That engine will be in self-destruct mode, have detonation, and an effective compression ratio of 20:1!
This is why the racers only run 5:1 or even 6:1. All of this is great for a drag car, but because the static compression is lower, you will not have much bottom end torque either. So, since most of us don't drag race every place we go, a good compromise would be 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. This way you don't loose too much bottom end for driveability, and if you don't run too much boost, say 10 to 15 PSI, you stay away from the gray effective compression area of 15:1 and up.
Remember, that the shape of the combustion area, cam, type of fuel, etc. all play a part of when the engine starts to detonate. It comes down to start with low boost, and sneak it up from there until you run into problems.
You make horsepower by how much air you move through the motor. A high compression 10:1 engine is more efficient than a 7:1 engine, so the 10:1 engine gives you more bang for the buck. However, because the lower compression is not as efficient, it will move more air through it. So, at 15 PSI of boost, the 7:1 engine will have an effective compression ratio of 14:1, will not be into detonation, and be moving more air, making more horsepower than the same conditions for the 10:1 engine. That engine will be in self-destruct mode, have detonation, and an effective compression ratio of 20:1!
This is why the racers only run 5:1 or even 6:1. All of this is great for a drag car, but because the static compression is lower, you will not have much bottom end torque either. So, since most of us don't drag race every place we go, a good compromise would be 8:1 or 8.5:1 compression. This way you don't loose too much bottom end for driveability, and if you don't run too much boost, say 10 to 15 PSI, you stay away from the gray effective compression area of 15:1 and up.
Remember, that the shape of the combustion area, cam, type of fuel, etc. all play a part of when the engine starts to detonate. It comes down to start with low boost, and sneak it up from there until you run into problems.
i got the turbo kit in today and opened up the box and here is what everything looks like i did see that i am missing the pipe that goes from the turbo to the muffler and emailed finishline about the missing part . i also found out that the company that made the turbo kit is Richards Custom Cycle i emailed some questions about the kit like compression and how much boost will i get with this kit the web site is www.rccturbos.com. I have 102 studs in the track i will update soon
how goes the install go...and are you thru the beer supplies...lol...and for the people who are asking y do this and not just buy the turbo...ever heard of a sleeper...lol...and more importantly y not...keep up the good work
here is what i have got so far things are going very well i should have it running by the weekend
here are some more pictures
and here is some more pictures
Wow...that took a lot of Ultra.
Cool setup, you will have a collectors item when your done.
K
Cool setup, you will have a collectors item when your done.
K
Looks great so far! I bet you can't wait for snow!
here are some more pictures of the turbo install you can see no more air box in the way of the spark plugs now all i got to do is loosen 4 tee clamps to remove the turbo pipe to get to the plugs and as you can see i installed heat shield all around where the hot side of the turbo will be, and i also installed heat wrap around the fuel lines as well ,and i also took some pictures of me installing the gauges ( boost and fuel pressure ) i will install a air / fuel ratio gauge for tuning the fuel and timing maps and setting the boost and then i will take it off . also wile i had the sled apart i installed a heating pad to the seat ( i had to remove the cover to do it )it is easy to do and it only cost $60.00 for the kit and it comes with a lighted switch .all i had to do was run the wires under the gas tank to the dash for hooking up i also have all the clutching done and back together i am just about out of parts i must be getting close to being done !!
more pictures
Well, with the warm seat that's going to be a hot ride for more then one reason. :-P
K
K
does it breath yet
nice,very nice,,,, 
Well i found out today from Arctic Cat ( after 8 phone calls ) that the 2007 jag does not have 12 to 1 compression it has 10 to 1 and the factory turbo has 7.5 to 1 compression and the factory turbo runs 7 pounds of boost to make the 177 ponies I also found out that the first finish line turbo install worked fine until they starded playing with the boost ( they ran it up to 14 psi ) that made 275 hp and it beat the rods out of it , so i am going to stay at 8 psi ( they said it will make 200 hp easy at 8 pounds of boost ) the only thing stopping me from starting it is i am still waiting for the pipe that goes from the turbo to the muffler and it will be here friday and then around the sub division i go lol
anymore info/progress?
Sorry for the delay but Jeff from finishline cant find the correct pipe that goes from the turbo to the muffler so i had to order a 3 bolt stainless steel turbo flange and a 2.5 inch stainless steel dounut ( to cut up to make the short bends )and i am also going to use the stainless steel pipe Jeff sent me ( it did not fit ) and make my own this week end if the flange shows up i will take pictures . And it is starting to snow here in indiana so i am tring to rush the shipping on the flange will update soon i hope j
That is purrrfect I just picked up a 07 Z1 for cheap with 700 miles and for an extra $3500.00 I could have that... Keep me posted on how all this works I love the sleeper idea...
Its done its done everything works great all i need is snow now i took it to my work where i have a 1/2 mile of grass and rode it for about a 1/2 hour with no problems i let is idle for 15 min and everything is good
keep us up to date on this project for the winter please...looking to do it to mine after the season is over...just wanting to know the long term results...and thx for all the pics...great job...and enjoy your sleeper
Hi there
Great work you´ve done on the Jag and on the pictures as well. Now I´m saying what everybody else may just be thinking. This calls for a VIDEO of it putting those horses to work!
Congrats on a great sled
Aristocat
Great work you´ve done on the Jag and on the pictures as well. Now I´m saying what everybody else may just be thinking. This calls for a VIDEO of it putting those horses to work!
Congrats on a great sled
Aristocat
ok i got about 300 miles on her now and the only problem i have had is the muffler was roasting my right foot so i took off the muffler and removed the heat shield and cut it open to ck out what was inside and when i cut it open i found fiberglass packing and ss screen so i cut them out and saved them and found 4 tubes inside so i cut them out so its a straight through muffler now and rewelded the screen and reinstalled the fiberglass packing and reinstalled the heat shield and put about 95 miles with no more heat problems and you can tell very little differance in the sound . and i get no pinging as long as i stay under 12 psi of boost on 93 pump gas and no ck engine light and top speed has been 124 and i dont plan to go any faster it is the perfect trail sled !!!!!!!!!!!
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