~~Carb Jetting Guide~~
This is a step-by-step procedure for re-jetting a carburetor, in this case it is the stock Mikuni BSR36 SS carb on the DVX 400.
- The first step before you even begin to tear into the carb is to give your ATV a good cleaning, you do not the risk of dirt contaminating the carburetor or engine while you are working on it.
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Number of downloads: 104- Next you must be able to get at the carburetor to work on it. This may involve removing fenders/side panels, fuel tank and air box depending on application.
For the DVX the whole fender assembly needed to be removed along with the gas tank to get full access to the carb.

- Now with everything out of the way its time to remove the carb to be worked on. If the tank wasn’t removed shut off the fuel and drain the carb bowl. Once the fuel has been drained unhook the fuel line and vent line from the carb, unhook the choke cable and throttle cable. Then loosen the carb boot clamps and remove the carburetor.
CHANGING MAIN JET- The main jet controls the fuel flow from ¾ throttle to full throttle. A larger numerical main jet increases the fuel flow from ¾ and beyond.
- To change the main jet turn the carb upside down and remove the idle mount screw on the carb bowl and then remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the carb (see picture below). These screws are very tight so make sure you have a good screw driver or impact driver to remove them, or they will strip.
If you round out the head of the screw, dont worry just take a dremel tool and cut a slot in the screw to remremove it with a flat head screw driver.

- With the carb bowl off you now have access to the main jet (along with the starter jet and pilot jet). With a wrench hold the Main jet holder and unscrew the main jet with a flat head screw driver and replace with correct jet. Thats all there is to it so now you can fasten the carb bowl back on.
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Number of downloads: 480ADJUSTING NEEDLE JET CLIP- The needle jet controls the amount of fuel from ¼ to ¾ throttle positions. By moving the e-clip up you lean out the mixture and lower the e-clip richens the mixture.
The stock needle on the DVX is non-adjustable so an aftermarket needle will be needed.
- To get to the needle assembly remove the two screws holding the diaphragm cover on and beware of the large spring underneath it.
- With the cover off gently pull up on the rubber diaphragm and remove the slide. With the slide out of the carb take a pair of pliers and pull on the needle holder to take out the needle assembly. There is a tiny spring under the needle holder that can pop out so keep an eye open for that.

- Now that the needle is out you can make the adjustments needed. Just take note of the placement and order of the washers, spring and spacer are in for when its time to re install it.
- When putting the needle back in make sure it clicks into place in the diaphragm. Then put the diaphragm and slide back into the carb and put the diaphragm cover back on, be sure that the rubber seal is positioned right.
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW- The Pilot screw tunes the low end circuit of the carb from idle to ¼ throttle. Turning the screw out richens the mixture and turning it in cuts back the fuel flow, making it leaner.
- On the DVX carb the Pilot screw is located under a brass plug that needs to be drilled out and then take a self tapping screw and tread into the hole. With a pair of pliers pull the screw out which will bring the brass plug out with it. Now make the adjustments.
TESTING- Now comes the fun part and seeing if your new jetting setup works properly. Install a new spark plug to do a plug chop. With the ATV up to operating temperature do a run at full throttle and then hit the kill switch and cost to a stop. Remove the plug and take a look at it, the porcelain on the plug should be a nice tan color, if not then some more tuning will be needed. A white plug indicates it being lean and black is rich, remember that this was done at WOT so is verifying your main jet. If that looks good then check your midrange (needle jet clip) and work your way down to idle making proper adjustments.
Thats all there is to it, and its pretty easy to do, infact the hardest job is just getting the carburetor out so you can work on it easily and getting it tunned properly. Feel free to add more info or suggestions for rejetting a carb.