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98 ZR 600 longtrack project

24K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  vfrriderus 
#1 ·
Thought I'd post a couple pics of my longtrack project. This is the same 98 ZR 600 EFI LE in my signature. Since I decided to keep it and longtrack it I figured that it might be a good idea to strip it down and check things out. I'm glad I did. I found lots of little things that weren't quite right. The biggest thing was a bent rear shock because the previous owner had put the link bars in the wrong holes. Lots of other little stuff that needed attention too.

Anyway, I put a 136" x 1-3/4" track on it using the mountain machines extensions. I decided to stick with the stock rear wheels rather than put 8" wheels on. My reasoning is that it would give it a slight tip up in the rear for a little better trail manners. We'll see. I had to machine off the hyfax groove from the extensions to do this. It looks fine and although you may not be able to tell in the pictures, the track is not touching the concrete floor in my shop once it gets past the hyfax which end at the stock location. I mounted the skid lower using the drop brackets that were already mounted to the tunnel from the factory. The front skid mount is lowered to the next hole down from the stock location. I drilled out that hole using the doubler on the inside of the tunnel as a guide. Other things I did were to paint the front and rear suspension pieces, strip the tunnel to bare aluminum, put in 8 tooth drivers, added anti-stab wheels, and fabricated a homemade tunnel extension and rear bumper. It's starting to come together and I hope to have it all back together in a couple weeks and ready for next season. Anyway, here are some pics.

[attachment=98995:ZR_1.JPG]

[attachment=98996:ZR_2.JPG]
 

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#3 ·
Thanks, I just couldn't see paying over $100 for $10 worth of aluminum. I bought the sheet stock and had the stuff to make the bumper laying around the shop. If I could justify the cost, I would have powder coated the tunnel and suspension parts. Just couldn't see spending that much for this old of a sled. BTW,I saw your skid in another post and it looks fantastic. Thanks again for the compliment.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, I saw the suspension looks white in the pictures, but its actually a light gray. I'll hopefully have some more pictures to post this weekend. This sled has become the wife's sled and a backup sled for trips with the guys. We are getting rid of our old 2-up, but have to have a 2-seat sled so I can take my handicapped son riding on the trails so I bought a AC 2-up seat to go on the ZR. Will build a removable back-rest for him too. It would definitely look better with the stock seat but it'll do. More pics as I have them.
 
#7 ·
Oh I have a request: When all is said and done, would you mind letting me know how much the whole extension process cost you (to extend the tunnel, skid, and buy the track)..

I have a chance at a full used cat extension kit that comes with the extended coolers, 136" rails, and track.. Just want to see if it's worth the money or not! Thanks
 
#8 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (snow pro @ Apr 26 2008, 08:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Oh I have a request: When all is said and done, would you mind letting me know how much the whole extension process cost you (to extend the tunnel, skid, and buy the track)..

I have a chance at a full used cat extension kit that comes with the extended coolers, 136" rails, and track.. Just want to see if it's worth the money or not! Thanks[/b]
Here is what I have in the extension:

Mountain Machines rail extensions - $138.25 (including shipping)
136 x 1-3/4 track off e-bay - $152.50 (including shipping)
Sheet aluminum for tunnel extension - $18.95 (Including tax)
Aluminum for bumper - $15.00 estimated because I already had this stuff

Total: $324.70

Consider though that I sold my 121" track for $120 net after I paid for shipping, so my total was $204.70. You also have to consider that I used the stock wheels and machined the extensions. The MM rail extensions are designed for 8" wheels which you can get a plastic set for about $100. Using them as MM designed them also requires new longer hyfax (about $20 a pair). My hyfax were worn so I replaced them, but wouldn't have had to the way I went. I also didn't put in any additional cooling. I figure I'll give it a try and if I have a problem I will get a used cooler off a mountain cat or similar. During the season, I saw them going for about $30 on e-bay.

Hope this helps.
 
#9 ·
Why do the mountain sleds need the extra cooling? You would thing since they are used in areas were they is more snow then a 121" that they would not need the extra cooling?
 
#10 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (paintballdude05 @ Apr 26 2008, 02:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Why do the mountain sleds need the extra cooling? You would thing since they are used in areas were they is more snow then a 121" that they would not need the extra cooling?[/b]
I don't fully understand it either. That's why I'm going to try it with the stock cooling system. From what I've heard though its a on-trail problem. When you do like I did and drop the skid down you don't throw enough snow up on the coolers when on-trail anymore and it gets hot. No problem when in the powder. At least that's what I've read.

Sled is coming together good. Should have it back together tomorrow or Monday. Engine is in, font bumper and hood are on. Just have exhaust and lower body panels left. I'll post some pics when its done.
 
#12 ·
Sounds good, I think the guy wants something around 300 bucks for the actual extension kit, not including the track.. He got it from a guy who bought it from Cat and never used it, and he only paid 300. He used the it for like 2 seasons, so I wouldn't give him the 300 for it, plus he wants an additional 300 for the 136 x 1 or 1.25 track. It would run me like 600 bucks for the works unless i got the price down, but i think for how I ride, i'd be happier with a new 121 x 1.5 track :)
 
#13 ·
It's sorta done Cat happy Cat happy Just have to build the rack for the tunnel, put on a brake light (Will mount on the rack), and top off the fluids. It'll have to wait till fall though. Too many other projects for the summer.

As a reminder, here is what it has and what was changed:

1998 ZR 600 EFI LE
136 x 1-3/4 track
8-tooth drivers
Modified Mountain Machines rail extensions
Homemade tunnel extension and rear bumper
Factory 2-up conversion seat
Stripped tunnel
Re-painted suspension
Homemade handlebar riser (about 3")
All new jackshaft and driveshaft bearings

Here is a before picture:
[attachment=99410:Before_1.JPG]

And after:
[attachment=99411:after_1.JPG]
[attachment=99412:after_2.JPG]
[attachment=99413:after_3.JPG]
 

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#15 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (paintballdude05 @ Apr 28 2008, 09:53 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Looking good, the only thing left is to change out those stock graphics![/b]
I thought about changing the graphics, but don't want to spend the money and all the original vinyl is still in good shape. I also still like the stock graphics and I haven't seen any other graphic schemes that I like any better.
 
#17 ·
looks awesome, time for some c&a's?
 
#18 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zrmodman @ Apr 29 2008, 10:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
What's up with the 2up seat?? chairshot[/b]
Earlier this year I bought a 2003 Mountain Cat for my primary use. I built up the ZR as a backup for my Mountain Cat and for the wife and friends to ride. My son is handicapped but likes to ride, so we need a 2-up, but don't need 3 sleds. I decided to sell our old Ski-doo 2-up and keep the ZR, so I got the 2-up seat so my son can still enjoy riding the trails. He will also need a back rest and I'm going to make one that fits him, but is removable for the times he is not with us. The wife mandated that we still have a sled that we could take our son riding with us. Since I wanted to keep the ZR, I had to make it 2-place. I looked into the strap on 2-up seats, but wasn't sure how well they work, and came across the new factory 2-up conversion seat. Bottom line is that I needed it to keep the ZR and accommodate my handicapped son.
 
#20 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (SmokinZR600EFI @ Apr 29 2008, 10:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
looks awesome, time for some c&a's?[/b]
Actually, I was thinking about getting some Powder Pro's for my Mountain Cat and then moving the stock M-cat skis to the ZR and see how they do. I may have to wait a year for that though. The wife does the finances and already told me I've spent too much on sled stuff this year I dunno . I guess I can't complain since she let me buy the M-cat and do the longtrack project too :thumbsup: . All together that comes to around $4000 this year.
 
#21 ·
cool cool, going to pick up my new to me ride tomorrow am.
 
#22 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Fast 440 @ Apr 29 2008, 11:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
You should think about mounting a set of wheels where the sliders end. It will wear away too fast if you don't. Great looking mod.

~Fast[/b]
Yeah. I wondered about that too. I though about putting a pair of wheels inside the rails too. I went over and looked at my friends Rev that has tipped rail extensions where the hyfax ends ahead of the rear wheel kind of like mine. He said he hasn't had a problem with the hyfax wearing out and he doesn't have any wheels there so I decided to try it that way and keep an eye on it. Thanks for the compliment.
 
#23 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (109jb @ Apr 29 2008, 11:22 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zrmodman @ Apr 29 2008, 10:16 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
What's up with the 2up seat?? chairshot[/b]
Earlier this year I bought a 2003 Mountain Cat for my primary use. I built up the ZR as a backup for my Mountain Cat and for the wife and friends to ride. My son is handicapped but likes to ride, so we need a 2-up, but don't need 3 sleds. I decided to sell our old Ski-doo 2-up and keep the ZR, so I got the 2-up seat so my son can still enjoy riding the trails. He will also need a back rest and I'm going to make one that fits him, but is removable for the times he is not with us. The wife mandated that we still have a sled that we could take our son riding with us. Since I wanted to keep the ZR, I had to make it 2-place. I looked into the strap on 2-up seats, but wasn't sure how well they work, and came across the new factory 2-up conversion seat. Bottom line is that I needed it to keep the ZR and accommodate my handicapped son.
[/b][/quote]
That's awesome 109!! Nothing like getting the kid's out there and enjoying sled's also. :chug:
 
#24 ·
Hey I'm thinking about longtracking my sled as well and I just had a few questions. . . the answers may be really obvious to some so sorry if the questions are dumb. . . but i was wondering if the more teeth you have on the driver was just to help prevent slipping or does it help other things too? What is the hyfax? Also, is the reason that your back end stands up a lot higher because the longer track or is it some other reason?
 
#25 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Dan15 @ Jun 4 2008, 05:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hey I'm thinking about longtracking my sled as well and I just had a few questions. . . the answers may be really obvious to some so sorry if the questions are dumb. . . but i was wondering if the more teeth you have on the driver was just to help prevent slipping or does it help other things too? What is the hyfax? Also, is the reason that your back end stands up a lot higher because the longer track or is it some other reason?[/b]
Well the more teeth you have the less it will slip but this realy does not play a part in the kind of driver you buy. The typical driver is 9 teeth. The newer sleds are coming out with 10 from the factory since it gives less roling resistance thus more speed. The old ZR chassis sled came with 9 and usualy when people change them they go lower to 8 even 7 in extreme casses to have more clearence to run a bigger lug track. You can get special drivers called anti-ratchet that drive from the usual location and from the openings in the track.

A hyfax is the plastic/ composite strip that goes on the bottom of the rail of your rear suspension. It bassicly reduces friction between the rail and track clips. The hyfax takes the beating for the most part instead of the expensive rail and track clips(clips need to be replaced sometimes but usualy the track's rubber goes first). They can also be refered to as sliders. They come in alot of diffrent colors and diffrent materials such as graphite slides.

There could be a few reason for the rear end being up. Changing the skid mounting locations in the tunnel is the most likely one of all thought. Also might seem higher cause of the tunnel extension.
 
#26 ·
paintballdude05 answered all of the questions except the ones specifically relating to my sled. So, here goes.

1. I went with 8 tooth drivers for the exact reason paintballdude05 mentioned. I went with a 1-3/4 inch track and switched to the 8-tooth drivers for more clearance. Even though the track was supposedly a 1-3/4, the lug height was actually closer to 1-7/8 and the clearance was a little too close for comfort. I went with stock style drivers because I got them cheap and was on a budget. The Wahl anti-ratchet drivers would definitely be better, but would have cost me an extra $100 or so.

2. With regard to why my sled looks like it is sitting higher in the back, there are a couple reasons. First, if you compare the before and after pictures, the before picture is how my sled sat with what turned out to be a broken skid shock because the previous owner had the link bars in the wrong holes. It was actually sitting lower than it should have. Secondly, the tunnel extension does make it longer and therefore the bumper will be higher. Third, my skid has been mounted lower in the tunnel. I did this for more clearance to the tunnel coolers so that I wouldn't have to notch the track lugs, and also because I like the looks that way. If I don't like the ride, handling or whatever once I get it on the snow I will mount the skid back in the original holes and go ahead and notch the track lugs.

Hope this helps.
 
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