Rear suspension flipped down - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-13-2017, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Rear suspension flipped down

Was putting my sleds away for the summer and noticed this on my tcat. I was driving it like this all year?!?! ? Could that be the reason so many outer studs got pulled out when I was riding and why I had to have the track so tight because it was ratcheting?? Does anyone know if it can be moved into it's slot without having to take out the whole entire suspension out again?
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-13-2017, 03:31 PM
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A lot of guys cut the tops of the black plastic holder off and let the spring sit down in it. There is downward pressure on it, so they won't come out. Then you can just turn the plastic part upward like the arrow shows and let the spring set down inside the plastic holder. Otherwise, you may need to take some of the parts out and try to line everything up. No need to take the suspension out, but the way I mentioned is the easiest.



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post #3 of 6 Old 06-13-2017, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Okay cool. Thank you Mr tcat.
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-14-2017, 05:09 AM
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No need to cut the retainer..........Lift rear of sled off the ground, unbolt retainer, slide onto spring, turn retainer so spring is on top, lift up and slide bolt back through rail. Shouldn't take more than just a few minutes.
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-14-2017, 01:17 PM
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rear suspension

his being a tcat has the zrt type rear.
the bolt that holds his spring slider goes all the way through the rear shock front mounting pivot point and bogie wheels.
so it is much eaisier to cut the top of the zrt sliders.
than to remove that long bolt.

the zl puma and jag have the type seperate from the rear shock front pivot point

the big question is why is it out in the first place?
we drilled the little holes in the face of the slider all the way through and used stainless cable ties to prevent the spring from coming out of the cut slider top,.

our 2001 tcat would pop out the spring sliders if i cleared more than 20 feet of a small jump.
that is why we put the stainless cable ties on.
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-19-2017, 03:55 PM
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Yeah, you shouldn't need to unbolt the spring slider block. Grab the end of the spring and rotate the slider block forward and get the end of the spring into the hole in the slider block as you rotate it around. Set the tail adjuster to the lowest setting to reduce the preload on the spring as much as possible. That is how I do it on my sled when i pull the skid and want to unload the springs to get mounting holes lined up, etc. You can use a pry bar under the spring end, with the point on top of the rail, to lift the end of spring to align it with the hole in the slider block. This may all depend on the length of the spring arm, but it probably shouldn't pop out if it is long enough.

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