New paint job for hood or just clear coat? - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

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post #1 of 20 Old 02-14-2017, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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New paint job for hood or just clear coat?

The sled is a 2000 ZL, it sat and clearly even with a cover the sun did some work. The sled just got a new track and is being brought back to life with only 2400 miles on it. Now from 5-10 feet it looks good, if you take a close look at the hood though you can see the wear on the paint. Now I am wondering if I should have the good taken to a good body shop for a repaint. Can they just tape off the decals or would I need to order a new set and have them put back on? (No clue what THAT could cost).



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post #2 of 20 Old 02-14-2017, 07:58 AM
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Done right and looking good requires a full strip, paint and clearcoat. I doubt you will be able to just clear it. Somebody on here had a company do decals for I think a ZRT. Do a search for "decal kit". Another option is custom graphics decal if you don't want factory looking decals back on. Could be 400 bucks or more.

Current Sled rides
2005 Sabercat 600 EFI LX
2006 T660 Turbo Touring
2016 Bearcat 2000XT

Past Sled rides
1993 Pantera 550 EFI
1980 El Tigre 6000

Current ATV rides
2005 A/C 300 manual 4x4
RTR Bushings & shock bushings


2003 A/C 400 auto 4x4 FIS
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2003 A/C 400 manual ACT 4x4
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post #3 of 20 Old 02-14-2017, 08:58 AM
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Sled: 1997 t cat,1997 zrt 600
I did two hoods last yr, one I taped off decals and sanded down hood and rattle can painted
and other did a full strip down of decals and sanded and had a body shop paint it for me

the rattle can came out very nice, but wasn't the color I had hoped for,
used GOOD paint, , supposed to be Glass black, but came out Black Matte, then tried to clear coat and NO better
contacted company, and they sent me all new paint,m re sanded down and had exact same results
looks decent, but not GLOSS
and again did it all with decals,
after all the paint layers were on it, (did 3 coats of gloss/ and 3 of clear, it ended up being almost smooth with decals, so, its HARD to see that they were NOT added after painting

but a lot comes down to how well you tape your decals off

the hood the body shop painted, has great gloss, but they screwed me with doing a piss poor job of finish sanding and painting, used like one caot very thin and NOT happy at all with the job they did
they refused to correct, and got pissed off and gave up on a better paint job, as I had new decals made up, and winter was HERE by the time I got decals , so, didn;'t have time to re paint hood
and just stuck them on, but also got a second set of decals, so if down the road I wanted to re paint hood RIGHT way!

Decals are NOT cheap, and HARD to find OEM one's IF you even can!
a full set for the hood will be over 250 if not twice that if OEM

HOW Much you want the sled to be GOOD< will matter here on how much you wish to sink into things

I did a pretty much complete rebuild, so wanted it NICE, and spent a LOT on the whole project

but you can paint either way, decals on or off, if you do GOOD prep work

just make sure you use right type of paint, NOT all paint works on hoods that flex and such!
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post #4 of 20 Old 02-14-2017, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Honestly I'm pretty particular about Stock decals. I hate a badly done graphics set up but I'm also not interested in throwing $400 at the sled for just that. That picture was taken pretty close doesn't look that bad or should I just leave it alone and give it a wax job?

$500 for the sled family discount
$500 for new track install and to have it completely gone through and greased.
$250 Shipped for the track with 600 miles on it

It has 2500 miles on it. The seat has no rips and nothing is broken.
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post #5 of 20 Old 02-14-2017, 10:52 AM
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Sled: 1997 t cat,1997 zrt 600
there are a many ways to look at it
its a, being honest a 1500 seld
how much is it worth to you to have looking better

I had my OEM decals copied by a local decal shop, there about a 100% match as I can tell, have old one's and there about spot on, cost just under 300 bucks, but I wanted to do a pretty much full re do on sled, a T cat, so it was worth that price to ME, sled will never be worth what I put into it on the open market(and currently smashed as of last week, and waiting in Insurance to see how screwed I am on it)
but its an older sled, and most expect them to have wear and tear
if it bothers you, , its your call on what you wish to do to fix it or not,as how much $$ its worth to you

Rattle can, GOOD rattle can paint and some sanding and taping off decals, can get you a nicer smooth finish for about a 100 bucks or less
if you do your job right, and sand well, and prep better and spray in a good area where it will cure right and mostly dust free

IMO key is lots of THIN coats, and take 15 minutes between coats
and then clear at the end doing same process
then give it a few weeks to cure before waxing or??

can be like new almost if you do it right.

but that's a lot of time to do it RIGHT, and in the end your sled is still worth what it is now, to 99% of folks out there
but its YOUR"S and only you can decide what its worth to you!
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post #6 of 20 Old 02-15-2017, 12:57 PM
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09-10 Mileage: 400
08-09 Mileage: 400
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I took the hood from my son in laws 99 Powder special to a half a dozen body shops and most of them wouldn't even walk out to the truck and look at and the two that did wanted $500.00 to paint it after we stripped the parts off so we rattle caned it. It looks okay and certainly a lot better then the peeling pearl white that was on it. The stickers are still available for about $200.00
but if your hood looks good from 50ft. or at 50 mph. I would leave it alone. lol!
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post #7 of 20 Old 02-15-2017, 04:49 PM
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Learn to paint it yourself. I paint my own hoods and motorcycles. Taught myself and glad I did. You just need patience and lots of prep and wet sanding, if you want a really good job. If you want to go the rattle can method, there is nothing wrong with it. Remember, its just a way of delivering the paint to the surface of what you are painting. You can pick up a good 2 part clear in a rattle can, its called Spraymax 2k. The hardener is separate from the clear and is added when you pop a button on the bottom. Its just as good as the 2 part clear you mix in the spray guns. But you have to use it within 48 hours of popping the button.

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post #8 of 20 Old 02-15-2017, 05:56 PM
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As an ex body man/ painter, prep is all important to get a good finish. Primer and wet sanding. We have great rattle can paints nowadays to get that great finish.


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Current Sled rides
2005 Sabercat 600 EFI LX
2006 T660 Turbo Touring
2016 Bearcat 2000XT

Past Sled rides
1993 Pantera 550 EFI
1980 El Tigre 6000

Current ATV rides
2005 A/C 300 manual 4x4
RTR Bushings & shock bushings


2003 A/C 400 auto 4x4 FIS
RTR Steerlites & Shock Bushings
Motobatt battery
26" Kenda Bearclaw HTR's


2003 A/C 400 manual ACT 4x4
Rebuild Project started Mar 15 / 2017
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post #9 of 20 Old 02-16-2017, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 660catman View Post
As an ex body man/ painter, prep is all important to get a good finish. Primer and wet sanding. We have great rattle can paints nowadays to get that great finish.


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Good thread. Getting ready to spray a 96 ZR 580 efi hood!

What's the best type of plastic primer to use and is there a better brand of paint to use as well (i.e. rustoleum, napa, etc..)?

Thanks!
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post #10 of 20 Old 02-16-2017, 12:03 PM
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Another option is finding a good hood. You would be surprised at how many good ones are out there and at that vintage, cheaper to replace than paint. Usually have to pick them up as they are a pain to ship.

If your gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough!!!
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