97 zr580 bogs off idle - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

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Old 01-09-2017, 01:49 AM   #1
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97 zr580 bogs off idle

Just bought a 97 zr580 for my son, the guy I bought it from didn't know anything about it or snowmobiles at all. He said he got it in a trade and was moving needed it gone so I got it cheap. He said it ran when he got it a little over a year ago but had never ridden it, and he couldn't get it to start,a friend told him 1 cylinder was low on compression but when I tested both cylinders were just under 120 lbs.
I pulled the fuel rail and injectors checked air box for any debris all looked good , I did find oil pump lever stuck in full open position and cable was free. I sprayed with Wd-40 and it freed right up. Put fuel rail on siphoned gas tank dry added new fuel and tried it. Sled started on second pull and idled great. When I gave it gas it just bogs imidiatly and loads up won't even engage the clutch.
I pulled the belt to make sure nothing was sticking and same thing.
I've since pulled the exhaust pipe and found a LOT of oil inside both ends of pipe and a small puddle inside of the Y Pipe at motor. I also noticed a fairly large puddle in the belly pan under the pipe. I'm now thinking its bogging down and loading up from too much oil instead of gas ! How can I check pump flow ,is it possible that the pump is stuck full open even if the actuator arm and cable are moving freely?
Ive never worked on fuel injectors before and not sure where to begin and unfortunately the nearest cat dealer just closed up and next closest is almost 2 hours away.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:57 AM   #2
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If the oil pump has failed they typically fail wide open which should produce alot of heavy smoke even at idle. Now when it "bogs" and you let off the throttle does it come right back or take a bit? does it seem like it cuts out when you press the throttle?
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:29 PM   #3
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The first thing to check is what 1995acext580 is alluding to, that being the throttle safety switch, or TSS. The TSS is there to cut the ignition if the throttle is stuck open to prevent a run away, so when it acts up the engine will start and idle and then cut the spark before it reaches engagement RPM. I believe the 97 has a round kill switch, so pull the three prong connector near the base of the handlebars to bypass the TSS and see if that makes any difference. I think it is more likely the TSS than too much oil.
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:19 PM   #4
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Fuel injectors can get gummed up like carbs and should be cleaned too. But also bypass that TSS switch to rule it out. Its a common problem with the symptoms you're describing.
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:29 AM   #5
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I've tried disconnecting the tss as I know they can be problematic, it didn't seem to make a difference. I didn't jump it out I just unplugged it, is that ok or do you have to jump the connector ?
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:36 AM   #6
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Blaine got you covered with some good diagnostic vids:

https://www.youtube.com/user/BlaineDP/videos

Start here:

Its an old sled and has been sitting, most likely has had rotten fuel left in it several times in its past. So... your entire fuel system should be checked and cleaned. Start with flushing the tank and fuel pickups and look over the fuel pump. Replace any fuel lines in the tank and on the pump that are cracked, bad or getting rotten. Same goes for the rest of the fuel system, injectors too. Check fuel pressure with a gauge (~35 lbs I think?) when you are done cleaning/replacing rotten lines.

Be thorough and you will win,

Edit:
Don't be too concerned with the stuck oil pump lever at this point. I have seen them stick open after sitting a long time. Every one that I freed up with a bit of lube on the return spring and shaft, were fine after that.

Last edited by SevenBlizzardsRoad; 01-12-2017 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:53 AM   #7
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You can get a Clymer manual (it covers your sled and others 1990-1998) here:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/95...at-Cougar.html

Edit:
Also keep an eye on the water pump seal. There is a weep hole in the crankcase under the waterpump cover. Coolant will drip out that hole if seal is failing. Old sleds, no matter the miles on them, usually need them right about the time you get them running good again. Head 0-rings can start leaking too, so watch the coolant level closely. Jack up the front end of the sled 14 inches before taking the pressure cap off (cold motor) to check the level or to refill after changing the coolant.

Last edited by SevenBlizzardsRoad; 01-12-2017 at 02:03 AM.
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