1994 580 EXT EFI help - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

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post #1 of 17 Old 12-09-2012, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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1994 580 EXT EFI help

This sled beats me up EVERY year...

it will start and run on one cylinder, I will check battery voltage, but it was new this fall. It is just a pain in my BUTT!

Anything you guys can think of that would make it do this, LIST IT Ill test it! The thing is about to be started on fire!!!



P.S. anyone in SE MN or close to there who has a 90s polaris or cat sled.. I will TRADE you for it. And Make you happy! Let me know!!
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post #2 of 17 Old 12-09-2012, 12:06 PM
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Check for spark, swap the wires, check compression(could have a stuck ring from sitting), swap the injectors, swap the injector wires,. it could be the injector is stuck. check the air box.
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post #3 of 17 Old 12-09-2012, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ill see what checks out here!

Anybody have stator ohms for this? there are no ECU codes

one short blink is all!
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post #4 of 17 Old 12-09-2012, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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okay a new deal has happened...it will run, but only while on the charger. the battery seems to be constantly being drained? what the heck?!

is there a way to test the 'charge'coil on these beasts? Or am I looking in the wrong direction?!
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post #5 of 17 Old 12-09-2012, 09:06 PM
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Typically each leg of the stator should be .5 to 1.5 ohms, I'm not sure what the exact spec is, but most are in that range.

Zero ohms means a winding is shorted, high ohms means one is burnt.

Also test for continuity between a ground and each of the stator wires. If there's any circuit, the stator is bad.

Put a voltmeter on the battery with the engine running. Rev it up to about 2000rpm, you should have at least 13v across the battery. If it's less than ~12.5, it's not charging. The early EFI systems are very finicky about low voltages.

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post #6 of 17 Old 12-11-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Okay guys.. Here is the deal. I played with it a little, and charged up the battery... and it will run GREAT when on the charger. it now runs off the charger, but it wont run for long. It loses the charge and then quits. What can I do to check the charging system? Im in the market for a burn down 580 carbed sled... It would be WAY easier.
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post #7 of 17 Old 12-11-2012, 08:55 PM
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I'm not familiar with your exact sled, but when it's not charging, you either have a bad stator, or a bad R/R (rectifier/regulator)....which converts the unregulated AC from the stator into DC limited to ~14v.

On newer Cat EFI's, the R/R is built into the ECU, all it powers is the fuel pump and power valve servo.

Looking at the parts picture for your sled, you have a separate R/R unit (part #1 on this picture). That's good, easy to replace. Probably has either four or five wires....three are the same color and go to the stator, there may be one +12v output and the ground is through the mount, or it may ground through a -12v wire. Problem is these are kind of tough to test reliably.

The good news is that R/R's are extremely generic. They all do exactly the same thing and are totally interchangeable between manufacturers, machines, brands, ect. One from a Honda jet-ski would swap with one off a Harley, the only differences are typically in size/shape. Hop on ebay and find one on the cheap. When the one on my bike took a dump, Yamaha wanted $120 for a new one, I got a used one off a Ninja ZX14 for $20 shipped and it worked fine(albeit mounting it in a different spot since it was a bit bigger).

Older machines (say pre-2000) typically used shunt-style R/Rs, which all fail eventually. If there's a part# on the unit, if it starts with "SH" it's a shunt. Replace it. Newer ones start with "FH", meaning it is a MOSFET style, which are much more efficient and reliable. They're completely interchangeable.

This isn't a direct application, but much of the ideas are the same, here's a write up I did for a bike I used to own.

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post #8 of 17 Old 12-12-2012, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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We talking voltage regulator? like bolted to the frame? or the aluminum one that bolts behind the ECU?
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post #9 of 17 Old 12-12-2012, 12:32 PM
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well if you tested the battery and know that its OK, then i would try eliminating other components that draw juice from the regulator...like hand and thumb warmers; wires going to tail light and head light...unplug them and try again...could be just a short that is putting too much load on the charging system.

I know its a new battery and all, but did you even try another battery? Could be a bad battery that's shorted internaly...Or did you do the battery/regulator test like RaWarrior said in post #5?

I had a regulator fail on my old 99 mxz h.o and the failed regulator was actually overcharging and completely melted my hand and thumb warmers and all my bulbs were blown...so i'd be leaning towards a bad battery or stator....but check battery first

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post #10 of 17 Old 12-12-2012, 03:16 PM
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On yours it will be bolted to the frame just above and behind the chain case.
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