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post #1 of 12 Old 01-18-2012, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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spider removal

i have my 9 tower clutch apart spider nut loose. spider won't budge. how do I safly remove this i put wd-40 on tho try and loosen up. I have read to use big pry bar to remove don't know if this is best way. any inset would help need to reuse so don't want to damage
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post #2 of 12 Old 01-18-2012, 10:57 PM
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It needs to be locked in a clutch holder and a grunt tool used. It will take quite a bit of heat to break loose the locktite also. If you don't use heat and sometimes even with heat you will more than likely strip the threads on the stationary. That spider is torqed at 250 foot lbs when it is put on. the lock nut is only 80 or 85.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-18-2012, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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how do you torque spider to 250?
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-18-2012, 11:49 PM
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Big torque wrench or I used to use one that went to 150 and then gave it some more. 250 is tight. I can't remember if there was a multiple when I used the torque wrench on my grunt tool or not. I just know it was tight as hell
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-18-2012, 11:54 PM
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When the dealer did mine it took about 10 minutes heat and 4 foot cheater on top of the already long tool they had to break it loose heard a snap and I thought they broke the clutch. It was insane on how tight they put it back on. About a tube of red lock tight and some major pushing on the wrench. Let's just say the trip to the dealer was worth it. I would have ended up in the er trying to do it myself. If you have it apart that far they wouldn't charge much to do the spider of you can do the rest




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post #6 of 12 Old 01-19-2012, 12:00 AM
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gonna have to heat, i would suggest a couple of heat cycles to be sure. remember your dealing with aluminum. if it turns brown pull the heat off she's about to melt. doubt you'll get it with propane in case your wondering.

let me know how it goes, i have one to do one of these days.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-19-2012, 03:13 AM
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First you need the correct tools.. then I use Mapp Gas..propane might not do it.. heat well as above give her a good crank with a 4 foot cheater it will go. Lockite 620 green to reassemble that stuff is almost permanant. let us know how it went...
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-19-2012, 07:45 AM
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No heat needed. I have seen 4 come off in the last week and we clamped it down. And my friend who is a machinist has a giant rache with a custom 3 post head on it. It takes them right off.
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-19-2012, 09:57 AM
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As far as the 250# of torque is conserned just take a small punch and mark everything. When you reassemble the spider just use the same grunt tool and line up the punch marks. I have always had to use heat because my vise is not big enough.

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-19-2012, 10:49 AM
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By not using heat eventually you will eat quite a few sets of stationary threads. Cat recommends heat to loosen the locktite. I have the holder mounted right to the bench and it makes the bench creak quite a bit when you get a hard one. Even with heat we ate the threads on a nine post last year and that was heated with a oxy/acetylene torch. My set-up uses the standard clutch bolt to tighted it to the holder and Iuse way more torque on it there than ever on the sled. I have also had a bear of a time getting the clutch off the holder a few times.
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