Secondary clutch seized to driveshaft - - Arctic Cat Forum

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post #1 of 10 Old 11-10-2011, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Secondary clutch seized to driveshaft

Tried all the removal methods and I can think of and I still cant get it off. I am guessing the woodruff key must have sheered or walked to some extent and is now wedged between the clutch housing and the groove in the driveshaft, creating a near impossible bond between the two.

I've searched and tried heat on it, pb blaster, left it tipped the sled on its side for a week and let it soak with pb blaster, still nothing. When I got the sled, there was no retention bolt or shaft stub, so I dont know the history. It seems to be centered and runs fine but I really want to fine tune it and I know its probably going to mess with my belt deflection if its not perfect. Any other suggestions here? I dont want to hit it hard with a hammer for obvious reasons.

Flurries tonight and snow is on the way soon!

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post #2 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 06:08 AM
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You will have to pull the clutch and shaft and have it pressed off. I have seen them bad enough that they had to replace the shaft and clutch. In this case, ebay is a good friend. The prblem is that due to lack of lubrication the shaft seized to the clutch. I pull mine and use anti-seize on them every fall.
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post #3 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 06:53 AM
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ya, if you ca n't press it off then it is toast...I had one like that this year. i bought a 1995 ZRT 800, fixed it and sold it but the secondary was seized on it and we could not even press it off so the secondary and shaft are sitting in the corner now and i bought another used shaft and clutch to use on it.
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post #4 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 08:30 AM
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It is probably just rusted on from years of neglect. As mentioned, remove the entire secondary shaft with clutch attached and take it to a shop and have them press it off for you. I have a press of my own and had one so tight that when it broke loose, it sounded like someone fired a shotgun. Support the clutch as close to the shaft as possible. Clutch was still fine. Had to clean the bore using a flap snading wheel and extension. Shaft was ok too and i just wire wheeled it.
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post #5 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 10:34 AM
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I ended up cutting mine in half with my airhammer! Then bought a used one. Like said above I pull mine every year and put a dab of antiseize on it.
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post #6 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 04:37 PM
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I had the exact same problem on my ZR700. I sprayed PB blaster in the front and the back where the secondary and the shaft met. I tried and tried with no luck. I rented a puller from a local motorsports place thinking that would help. After removing the cover plate off for the secondary (I had to do that to use the tool) the damn thing fell off in my hand. I dont know if this was luck or what, but it worked. Worth a shot if the secondary is still together.
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post #7 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 04:43 PM
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I have seen this many times before............some A-HOLE didn't ever grease the shaft. Take it down to a shop that has a 100 ton press. The shaft will live, 50-50 on the clutch. Pressing can sometimes gall the inside of the clutch. Secondary clutches can usually be found cheap at swap meets. It's a pain in the butt, but it can be done.
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post #8 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 04:48 PM
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Had the same problem when I bought my zr. I borrowed a puller from my local dealer and it took two of us to get it off. One running the torch and rotating the clutch and the other running the impact on the puller for about 45 mins straight. Was a slow process but was able to salvage everything. Just had to do a lot of cleaning afterwards. Now I use anti sieze on the shaft.
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post #9 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 04:52 PM
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It's probably rusted. You can buy a secondary puller for these. Try this before pulling the jackshaft.
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post #10 of 10 Old 11-11-2011, 06:00 PM
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If clutch is that bad.
Probably best to pull shaft out and press off.
While it's out change those bearings!!!
No better time.

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