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post #1 of 10 Old 10-12-2010, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Is the adjustment bolt for 1994 zr 700 soposto be bottomed out to the plate of the chaine roller that hold temsion in the chain or is there soposto be space between it ?? if that makes any sence try to get camera for pics
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post #2 of 10 Old 10-12-2010, 05:14 PM
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If the bolt is tightened in all the way by hand, then the chain is worn. The bolt should be finger tight.

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post #3 of 10 Old 10-12-2010, 06:52 PM
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yep ur chain is stretched or something is together wrong.
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post #4 of 10 Old 10-12-2010, 07:12 PM
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The chain might not be stretched, it might just be the wrong length. Did you change gears/gearing??
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post #5 of 10 Old 10-12-2010, 08:27 PM
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I went through the 2001 manual and didn't really find a definitive answer on this. Inside there should be a spring holding the idlers together to create an hourglass shape in the chain. When tightening that adjustment bolt the only thing really happening is manipulating that hourglass into more of a 'B' shape. In that case it's possible to get rid of the rear idler since the tensioner is taking all the play out.

My 95 never came with the tensioner system and only has the spring holding the idlers together.

My theory on this; I use to have a motorcycle with a chain and I use to tinker a lot, so I was always adjusting the chain tension. I found as I rotated the tire, while it's on the center stand, the chain would actually have tight and loose sections. It was never consistent throughout the entire revolution. I assumed, since it was a fairly new chain, it was more of a characteristic of chains. I figured snowmobile chains would be the same. If the tensioner was adjusted fully at the loose part and was constantly going through a tight section with each revolution it seems to me there would be excessive stress on other components of the system.

I like to adjust it with the chain case cover off until it looks like an hourglass shape, then tighten the lock nut and forget about it. Tightening the adjuster anymore then that doesn't seem productive to me if the spring is installed.

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post #6 of 10 Old 10-12-2010, 09:01 PM
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My 90 el tigre is the same, I changed the bearings, new chain and finger tightened, its almost at the end of the adjustment. The plastic guides wear pretty fast - even worse when the chain is whipping around in there!!! I may put a slightly longer bolt in (1/4") next time its apart just to get me a touch more play without altering the geometry between the gears and tensioner.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-13-2010, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Never messed with the gearing but i know there that spring that pulls the roller and adjument roller together well you guys know how there that plate the bolt goes agisnt to move the adjustment roller in well my adjustment botl wasnt touching i just think it backed out some how but i took it all the apart bc i needed to get the jackshaft out anyways how do i tell but just having the chaing laying on floor? also wat did these sleds come with factory fo gearing ? wat gearing can i do to make this more of a low end midrange sled instaed of tops speeds? just wondering curious haha ohhh ya also should i put some type of locktight on the threaded part of the drive whels and jackshaf for the gears ? if that makes sence
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-13-2010, 02:40 PM
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The 94 ZR700 came stock with a 23 tooth top gear, a 40 tooth bottom gear for low altitude and 20 tooth top and 39 tooth bottom for altitudes above 4000 feet. The low altitude chain should have 72 links and the high altitude chain should have 70 links.

If you want better off the line performance and midrange, if you just go with the high altitude gearing you will accomplish this. Or, you can go with a top sprocket with one or 2 less teeth from what you have right now if the bottom sprocket is still good. If you just change the top sprocket you would have to get a shorter chain too possibly.
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-19-2010, 03:43 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (rsmorin1 @ Oct 12 2010, 08:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
My 90 el tigre is the same, I changed the bearings, new chain and finger tightened, its almost at the end of the adjustment. The plastic guides wear pretty fast - even worse when the chain is whipping around in there!!! I may put a slightly longer bolt in (1/4") next time its apart just to get me a touch more play without altering the geometry between the gears and tensioner.[/b]
Don't put in a longer bolt, get a new chain! If that worn out chain breaks while riding you may make a huge mess.

When you put a new chain side-by-side with a worn one, the worn one is pretty obvious. If the gears are in good shape you do not have to replace them when you install a new chain.

[
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-19-2010, 07:15 PM
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (94ZR580 @ Oct 19 2010, 04:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (rsmorin1 @ Oct 12 2010, 08:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Quote:
My 90 el tigre is the same, I changed the bearings, new chain and finger tightened, its almost at the end of the adjustment. The plastic guides wear pretty fast - even worse when the chain is whipping around in there!!! I may put a slightly longer bolt in (1/4") next time its apart just to get me a touch more play without altering the geometry between the gears and tensioner.[/b]
Don't put in a longer bolt, get a new chain! If that worn out chain breaks while riding you may make a huge mess.

When you put a new chain side-by-side with a worn one, the worn one is pretty obvious. If the gears are in good shape you do not have to replace them when you install a new chain.
[/b][/quote]

I did put a new chain but the plastic tensioners (new also) were getting worn down quite fast at first or maybe had to find their sweet spot as in wearing down the high points. It seems to be ok now but had me concerned at first. The plastic guides are pretty cheap and easy to replace but maybe i got some soft ones that wore down quicker.
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