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Old 04-15-2010, 02:00 PM   #1
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Sled: 2001 arctic cat zr600
hey all i have a 2001 arctic cat zr600 i am trying to figure out the best way to go as far as a clutch setup, some people tell me i should buy a clutch kit from D&D and others say that the way to go is come up with a setup of my own. Basically i just want to liven up the sled a little bit. any advice or help would be greatly appreciated
thanks bob
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Old 04-15-2010, 03:03 PM   #2
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Sled: 2000 AC ZR600 / 2003 AC Sno Pro Z440 FC
Personally, unless you want to dicker with it a lot, I would buy a clutch kit from EPI, D&D or Goodwin and be done with it.
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Old 04-15-2010, 04:44 PM   #3
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Sled: 02 ZR 800/900 EFI cce, 94 ZR580
10-11 Mileage:
09-10 Mileage: 254
08-09 Mileage: 210
07-08 Mileage: 250
06-07 Mileage: 300
54 gram weights and a 57-50 helix! Use stock springs. IMO.
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:43 PM   #4
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Sled: 2001 ZRT-600/ZR9&F7
10-11 Mileage: 500
09-10 Mileage: 800
08-09 Mileage: 1,100
07-08 Mileage: 1,200
06-07 Mileage: 1,800
ATV: none
I have a BlackMagic clutch kit for the 2000-2002 ZR600 for sale. It has wgts,pri sprg,helix and sec sprg,low mileage and in good shape.I'd take$100 plus shipping for it. Hdal
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Old 04-15-2010, 06:44 PM   #5
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Sled: 02 ZR 800/900 EFI cce, 94 ZR580
10-11 Mileage:
09-10 Mileage: 254
08-09 Mileage: 210
07-08 Mileage: 250
06-07 Mileage: 300
Well there ya go! Cheap enough!
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:09 PM   #6
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idk, i suppose you could get a quicker holeshot with brank x kit and higher topend with brand y......if I were you, I'd keep them spotless with fresh pins, bushings, shims and good stock springs and be happy. The 01s rip just fine with the stock setup. Keeping them clean is more important. Cat clutches need attention around 1200 miles. Some will tell you more, but I have found that 1200 is where my bushings start wearing to the point the pins are meeting the weights. Blowing the dust out of the primary helps with longevity as well.
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:19 PM   #7
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Sled: 97 zr440 02 zr cc
ATV: 99 polaris scrambler 400 4x4
2007 Mileage: don't know
whats the helix number on the blackmagic kit?? BM18??
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Old 04-15-2010, 10:07 PM   #8
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Sled: 1998 ZR 600, 1978 John Deere Spitfire
07-08 Mileage: none yet, no snow
06-07 Mileage: 500
ATV: 2002 Yamaha Kodiak 400
2007 Mileage: 300
2006 Mileage: 300
i was in the market last season and had a hard time deciding on what i should do kit wise.. should i buy some brand name or make my own... i personally like to learn about stuff so i bought what other people told me to and then added to it by buying other springs, weights, helix's and learned somewhat how the clutching works on these sleds.

i'm running 51.5g notched weights, orange white primary, green secondary, and a combination of like 64-56 helix down to the 58-52.

i've heard that those powervalved sleds like more weight like mentioned above by insaincat.
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Old 04-20-2010, 06:41 PM   #9
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Sled: 97 zr440 02 zr cc
ATV: 99 polaris scrambler 400 4x4
2007 Mileage: don't know
Best advice for clutching is throw as much weight as the engine will pull to the max RPM your pipe was built for. What the weight does is squeezes the belt on take off. The spring gives you your engagment. weight has something to do with engagment if its heavy with the same spring its going to engauge sooner cause of the rotating mass being more then something thats lighter. ITs all how you want the clutch to act too. Some people grind the tips off to make the weight that there sled can pull. If a weight is heavy on the end its not going to pull the same RPMs on top as a weight built with a light tip. Like on my 440 ZR with pipes the stock weight is 46 grams at 8500 for stock pipe. My twins run at 9150 you take 3 grams off for every gram you take off the clutch weight your going to raise your Top RPM 200 in its kind a rule of thumb. Lots got to do with rider weight also thats a whole different subject. The twin power band is different then stock you got more mid and top so you gotta clutch for that so we raise the engaugement to 6000 almost. Then we leave the weight on the bottom of the weight as much as you can then grind the tip til you reach that top RPM that the pipe works on. Your helix and stuff like that is your gearing. Thats why Insanecat said the 600 will pull 54 grams hes correct. I ran 54 grams in my 600 it ran really well. I think 50 grams is too light but you can make up for that with your secondary spring by moving that so it shifts quicker so the sled dont over rev the power band. The heavier primary weight is better then adjusting the spring because you are putting more force on the belt you get less slippage on the belt which gives you less heat. Which will give you better belt life and keep the belt from stretching like a rubber band when it gets hot and losing horse power. Theres alot more too it then what I stated its the basics behind why the heavier weight is used some people will argue about the weight some will agree. Thats the way I learned to clutch a sled. Seems to work for me you can clutch a sled a lot of different ways to get the same out come. Springs have different rates and lengths you can get the samething somebody else has with different things. Hope I didnt lose anyone on that. What I am saying is someone can tell you no you use a green spring instead of a purple/white they might be close in spring rate or you got something else different. Alot of aftermarket company's will use factory springs and just spray paint there color like a orange comet primary is so close to a arctic cat orange/white.
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:24 AM   #10
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (insaincat @ Apr 15 2010, 04:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
 Quote:
54 gram weights and a 57-50 helix! Use stock springs. IMO.[/b]
56g poo arms with the tips cut for a total arm weight of 55.2
stock springs in both clutch's secondary set in the middle hole
and a 58-50. Sled runs 82-8300 pulls all the way threw, offers
great back shift for the trails and changing conditions. very ridable.
02 ZR600 EFI CC
Total cost of the set up was 90.00, rider weight is 180lbs and stock gearing.
Just my .02 worth
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