I have bought a t-cat 2001. have bought 2 degreed timing key,gutted air box, new jets(all sparkplugs are light brown) new D&D helix 60/40, red white seocondary spring, yellow/white primary. I do get 8400 -8800 rpm. if use 035 drive belt i reach 8800, if a good used 020 belt i get 8400. I have studded the track with 144 from studboy 1,500. I tryed it on the lake and cant get more that 154km/t or 95mph. i cant get my belt all the way out on the primary, did mark a line on it, and it have a bit over 1/2 inch before it is all out. Have used 64 gram weights, did change to 62 and no changes in top speed. Did remove the belt and tryed to see if the primary do work, and it does...i have not 100 % perfect rollers on my secondary, but think i should get more speed. my gearing is 23/40, have ordered the 24/39 but so will change later. Have also tryed all available changes at the secondayr spring, with no better or worse result. have also used all from 1 shim to three shims in the secondary, no changes in accelatation or top speed.
Have not checked the alligment and sheave distance..
Have today removed the 60/40 and put the stock back again and shall try it again. it runs like a bad 600..
Does anybody have a idea why my tcat wount go faster???
This is a brand new 6-post, 8 inch, 30 mm taper, big pin clutch that will fit all old sleds. It is a direct replacement for your sled but needs big pin weights. There are a few for sale on this e-bay site.
This clutch has the original 1/4-20 bolts holding the cover on. Buy 6 of 1623-670 1/4-20 shoulder bolts to pin the cover. You need to get a "K" letter drill bit. Now set the clutch up in a good drill press or mill. Remove one cover bolt and use a drill bit that just fits the hole to pilot the clutch to the chuck. Lock down the clutch and change the bit to a "K" letter drill. Set the depth stop so you only drill as low as the shoulder plus another 1/16". Drill the hole out. Put in the new bolt and repeat on another hole on the other side. Continue until all holes are drilled out. Drill the exact same depth to keep the clutch balance. Use 5/16" lock washers under the bolts.
Buy a new 0646-149 red spring or use your old one if it is in good shape.
Buy 3 0746-669 big pin 60 gram cam arms. I think the 0646-668 55 gram arms would be too light.
You will need to look at how the weights sit in the clutch with the spring in. The weights in my clutch did not fully tuck under and seat on the stops at the tip of the weight. This makes the engagement speed low. To fix this, I removed the spider and reduced the number of large diameter spider shims to force the arms to seat under and touch the stops. Doing this raised the engagement to about 3700 rpm. With the belt on the clutch, there should be some space between the pulley and belt. You adjust this buy adding or removing the smal diameter washer shims in the post under the spider shims. I used 0.080 to 0.100" shim to get more belt clearance. This makes a ahrder engagement because the clutch moves farther to grab the belt at engagement. The arms move farther out and provide more force.
I also added 0.080" shim washer between the cover and spring to increase the pre-load. This increased the engagement to 4000 rpm.
I used a 0648-114 red/wht spring in the secondary. Start with the spring in hole 1 and go up until you get the WOT rpm up to 8400 rpm. I think I am in hole 2.
Have bought the clutch today, have the spring and washers. So i only shall find the bolts and weights know. Did also find a reverse lever kit.
Thanks for the great info, and i will post reply later, when im done with the clutch. i have 64 grams weight on my cat today, so think i have to try out what i need. Did get my t-cat to 8800rpm last winter..with 035 belt on. but the clutch was bad
The old style cover bolts are regular 1/4-20 grade 8 bolts. The hole clearance in the cover and down the pulley hole will allow the pulley towers to spread apart and let the buttons rattle in the slides. In 2009, the clutches on the four strokes and large 2 strokes were modified with the shoulder bolts.
These bolts have a larger dia. from the thread to the head. When the clearance part of the hole is drilled with a "K" letter drill, the bolt shoulder fits tight in the hole like a dowel. This pins the cover all the way around so the towers cannot spread. The clutch is now even more strong. Cat took this idea from the Comet 108 EXP that used a special shoulder bolt for the same purpose.
This is really important when there are large torsional harmonics like my Kruger engine or a pulsing four stroke. I now have 4000 miles on my clutch on the T-Cat with no measurable wear at all. I still need to inspect the 700. If it lasts on that engine, it will last on anything.
I did not think that anyone knew about the new shoulder bolts so I brought it up here on this post for all to see. I read about the improvement in a magazine article and did a lot of part number checking to figure out what they did.
Have got my clutch know, but did do a mistake: order parts from my local dealership, i have understand that it is faster to order parts direct from the us... So do wait for my weights and pin bolts. have mounted my reverse gear this summer and wider skiis.
But to all of you out there: why is it diferent numbers at piston and rings to a 2001 and 2002 thundercat? I thought it was the same...I have at total overhauling this autum..
The 2001 is part # 3003-822 for the rings, and the 2002 is part # 3005-865 for the rings. Don't see just the piston alone for these anymore. What gives with the different part numbers???? I thought they were the same too.
But the bolts that i ordered does not fit the clutch.. they dont have the same rising(sorry have not the word at english). the bolts doesent fit the outer sheave. cant use them.
Did order two types of weights 60 and 63 gram, did also get my new chrome springs for front shocks, new rubberboots between carb and airbox.
And my reversekit is mounted..so after i have come home from my vaction, i shall take some pics of the Norweigian 2001 thunder, with 2000 prowler wide skiis on..
The next i shall do is to change the muffler, have plans to order 3-1 that is called jaws, is there anybody that have tryed this.. should buy the hole kit with pipes also, but have to get my crank welded first, before i go further at my way against 200 hp..
Read the paragraph below from my post above. You need to drill out the holes in the cover/sheeve with a "K" letter drill to accept the new bolts. This uses the larger shoulder of the new bolt as a dowel to pin the cover to the sheeve so the towers cannot spread. You MUST use a "K" letter drill and NOT some other size or the fit will not be tight. Read the procedure below.
This clutch has the original 1/4-20 bolts holding the cover on. Buy 6 of 1623-670 1/4-20 shoulder bolts to pin the cover. You need to get a "K" letter drill bit. Now set the clutch up in a good drill press or mill. Remove one cover bolt and use a drill bit that just fits the hole to pilot the clutch to the chuck. Lock down the clutch and change the bit to a "K" letter drill. Set the depth stop so you only drill as low as the shoulder plus another 1/16". Drill the hole out. Put in the new bolt and repeat on another hole on the other side. Continue until all holes are drilled out. Drill the exact same depth to keep the clutch balance. Use 5/16" lock washers under the bolts. Lubricate the bolt shoulders with oil when you put the new bolt in.
The problem is not to drill. The Problem is that the bolts are different.. The bolts from the clutch i bought does fit into a nut i have, but the new bolts doesnt fit into the same nut.. So i cant screw the new bolts in to the sheave because of the diference..
1623-442 is Screw, Cap, HH (hex head) 1/4-20 thread x 2.5 " long. This bolt was in both my clutches when I bought them. I would assume they are in your clutch too. This bolt has a 7/16" hex head.
1623-670 is Screw, Cap, FH, Shoulder 1/4-20 thread x 2.50" long. I bought this bolt and drilled the cover and sheeve to dowel the two together. This bolt first showed up in 2009 on some clutches and has a combination head of 3/8" hex and torx.
0646-431 is Screw, Cap, FH, Shoulder. I think it may be a metric thread because it takes an M8 lock washer. This bolt is in the 2011 clutches. Maybe you received the wrong bolts in the bag.
Then i have mounted the clutch, and secondary. Both new.
6 bolt clutch
Red spring in primary
Red/white in secondary
60/40 helix
60 gram weights
Mounted the reverse kit
jets 320 main
idling 30
Timing key 2 degreed
Wide skiis
New 020 belt
We still dont have enoght snow to hit the trail, but are going to try it to the weekend at road.
Engagement are only a little above 3000, have forgot the shim, but still have my yellow/white spring and adjustment at secondary..
Hope my cat will be ok this winter, and hit a little more than 85mph
Tucking under is where the biggest mass of the weight is directly under the pivot point at the heel of the weight. It then takes more rpm to get the weight to move out from under the pivot. I reduce the large spider shim total thickness until the weight is tight and not allowed to rock at all with the engine stopped. Doing this can make the belt slip at engagement so I increase the belt spacer washer thickness to move the whole assembly away from the belt. More belt clearance. When the weights start to move, they have a little more way to go before the belt gets grabbed. This makes a harder engagement to stop the slipping. I tossed the stepped spacer for old individual shims to get the thickness I need. I also had my buddy laser cut me different thickness stainless shims to use. A stepped spacer is idea if you know the two thicknesses you need and make it.
Since these old posts, I am now running a silver spring, 60 gram fixed pin weights, a yellow secondary spring and the same helix. I think it is 62/50 or something like that. It shifts out into overdrive around 75 mph and lets the rpm go down for fuel savings at high speed for touring. I needed to get 110 miles out of a tank of gas to make the gas station. This setup is what was used on older T-Cats. I don't race so max performance don't matter any more. By the way I have over 22,000 miles on this sled now.
Tucking under is where the biggest mass of the weight is directly under the pivot point at the heel of the weight.
It then takes more rpm to get the weight to move out from under the pivot.
I reduce the large spider shim total thickness until the weight is tight and not allowed to rock at all with the engine stopped.
Doing this can make the belt slip at engagement so I increase the belt spacer washer thickness to move the whole assembly away from the belt.
More belt clearance.
When the weights start to move, they have a little more way to go before the belt gets grabbed.
This makes a harder engagement to stop the slipping.
I tossed the stepped spacer for old individual shims to get the thickness I need.
I also had my buddy laser cut me different thickness stainless shims to use.
A stepped spacer is ideal if you know the two thicknesses you need and make it.
Where and how should I measure the distance between the weight and roller ?
What should the measurement be ?
What distance do you recommend between the sheave and the belt ?
I found the below picture while I searched the Internet.
Does it describe it the right way to do this adjustment ?
The reason is that I am going to use POLARIS h34r: weights in the Arctic Cat drive clutch,
but the shape of the Tip and Curvature on the Polaris weights are not the same as the Arctic Cat weights in there now. :huh:
The Polaris weights resting in a different way when they are in place.
I have got access to the tooling to do this,
but I have never set up a Arctic Cat clutch the right way so to speak,
so I thought that this would be a good time to learn. badcomputer
I run Polaris almost exclusively. I never shimmed mine for that reason. I know some guys lightly hit the tip (Down by the bolt) with a file or grinder to have them not touch when they flip over. I shimmed for a different reason. To change for a different belt width. (wider)
I'm aware of the basic principles in an CVT-system.
I am not happy with the shifting behavior of the original Arctic Cat weights,
Therefore, I would like to change it by using a different weight curvature using Polaris weights.
The question is just what heaviness to begin trying with ?
I want to lower the engagement Rpm, it is a little too high for my taste and the clutches does not shift well while driving.
I would like to have the engagement Rpm set to 3700 ~ 4000 rpm instead of the current 4500 Rpm and that the clutches shift better/harder through the Engine Rpm range.
The engine reaches its recommended 7300 Rpm at WOT but it feels like the engine's power not reaches the ground.
Because Arctic Cat weights do not use the same curvature when switching between the recommended weights, it becomes difficult to compare how they work.
So I thought then Polaris use the same curvature only the weight that is different then perhaps they should be easier to obtain comparable results between different weights.
:stirthepot:
What Polaris weight ( Serie-10 ) should I start with ?
The sled has Reverse, but I do not know the gear ratio ! bang your head
Riding height: 1500-3000 ft.
Hey Lasse, have you tried the Polaris 11 series weights? The big Cat triples love the heel weight and those 11's look to be a good choice for that big cat. What gears you running now,24/39? Have you marked your clutches to see that you are getting full shift out? That will not allow it to get to to MPH. Some secondary covers do hit the helix and not allow full shift out. The best thing to do is put the clutches on with the springs out and the belt on and look to see if anything is interfering with a full shift. Hold the front closed and the back open and look at the cover and helix area. I assume you have check your center to center by now correct? 12.200.
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