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Old 04-01-2010, 10:39 AM   #21
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The coolant temp sensor (switch) I bought is an automotive sensor used to turn on the fan at 195/200*F rather then 225*F and opens at 185*F. It is used on 1983 to 1992 Camaro/Firebird 305/350 engines. I bought this sensor because them cars have temp gauges and I would think that the sensors would have to be more accurate. Randycat, can you think of any other method I could use for testing ??

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Old 04-01-2010, 02:11 PM   #22
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After looking around the net a bit ,It seems to me that your method should work .
Maybe your first one was crap and you got a bad new one . IDK .
I would test this one the same way , but if you get the same results , then there's gotta be something to it . How are you measuring the temp.. infrared?
If it's a thermometer make sure it's not sitting on the bottom next to the element .
From what i can see , the only difference is there's no battery in the circuit .
Lets see what the test does on this one
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Old 04-01-2010, 03:38 PM   #23
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I am using a digital thermometer that reads in tenths. I suspend the thermometer in the oil about an inch from the sensor, not touching the container and I don't know what you mean by "Thrers no battery in the circuit".

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Old 04-01-2010, 04:46 PM   #24
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Sorry , i just meant the only difference between the way the sensor acts on the bench test and the way it acts in the sled is there's a voltage on the I/p of the sensor when it's in the sled .
The only other difference between in the sled and on the bench is the medium
oil vs coolant/water . I know there is some difference in the way and rate that they heat up and transfer heat , but i don't know enough about thermodynamics to speak about it ..Don't think it would make the 70 degree difference your seeing anyways .
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:19 PM   #25
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Well, I took the old sensor and did open hart on it and the bi-metal strip with contacts is connected to the brass housing. So, I guess as the sensor (switch) heats up the bi-metal strip distortes and makes contact with the center connection contacts which compleats the circuit and turns on the bulb. The engine has to be running of course.

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Old 04-01-2010, 10:22 PM   #26
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That sounds bang on from what i've read and i would like to know what happens with the new sensor in the same experiment . I did a little reading and apparently the oil may heat to a higher temperature much faster then water mixed with glycol .this kinda makes sense because you would need almost pure antifreeze to even get to the temp you described (without boiling). My theory is that the oil , because it heats faster and to a higher temperature quicker then the coolant mixture, might actually be hotter then the inside of the sensor (with the bi metal contact)which was designed to be in, and warm at the same rate as water/antifreeze mixture.
I don't know .. maybe i'm grasping at straws . ha ha
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:29 PM   #27
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You know you may have an idea there. I think i will heat the oil to lets say 180* then turn off the heat sorce and let the sensor heat up slowley. What do you think?

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Old 04-02-2010, 12:18 PM   #28
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Ya that was kinda what i was thinking too .. Something to try anyways .
The only other option i thought of was heating up a water/antifreeze mix . Water itself will boil at 212* so you wouldn't need too much coolant to raise the boiling point up .
Let me know how it goes .
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Old 04-02-2010, 02:51 PM   #29
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OK, by heating the oil slowley I came to what I think is close enough. I heated the oil to 100*F and unpluged the hot plate and watched the temp continue to climb to 142*F. I let it sit for around 5 min. until the thermometer reading started to fall then I pluged it back in. I used this method all the way up to 200*F and then unpluged the hot plate and waited. I am not sure if the contacts closed at 210 or 212*F (spec 200*F) because I was listening for the buzzing sound. My continuity meter will not buzz if the resistance is over 50 ohms and I was looking at the thermometer. The contacts opened at around 180 to 185*F real close to the spec of 185*F. I then did the same tests on the Arctic sensor and the contacts closed at 235*F and opened at 210*F. I bet you can guess which coolant temp switch I am going to use ? The testing I did was very crude and I don't know how accurate my thermometer is or as you said the differance in fluids. Anyhow I think I came pretty close. Thanks a bunch Randycat for your input.

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Old 04-02-2010, 08:56 PM   #30
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COOL ! I'm just glad we figured it out , learned a lot more and you got pretty good results on the tests too .

Till next time
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