2001 zrt 600 - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

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post #1 of 3 Old 02-01-2010, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Sled: 97 zrt 600, 01 zrt 600, 02 tcat
10-11 Mileage:
09-10 Mileage: none so far
08-09 Mileage: 1000
07-08 Mileage: 500ish
ATV: 1986 honda fourtrax 250
Im in the process of converting my 97 600 triple to the new 3d ignition. i was wondering if anyone knew what the best cdi was for the 600's 3d as far as the timing curves. and also if the 97 flywheel will work on the 3d stator? I have the 2001 zrt 600 powervalve cdi. and was wondering if this was the the best one for my none powervavle motor. Im also putting the rack carbs on it due to the 3d ignition and was questioning the oiler situation. 97 direct inject or do i need to convert to the 01 oil/fuel injection system. thanks to all that can respond. marty
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post #2 of 3 Old 02-01-2010, 04:57 PM
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Location: Georgetown, ON Canada
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Sled: 95 ZRT 800 AGLT, 92 Jag 440, 14 XF9000
10-11 Mileage: 800
09-10 Mileage: 679
08-09 Mileage: 1000
07-08 Mileage: 1600
06-07 Mileage: 728
ATV: 50cc
Not sure about flywheel, but the stator is quite different and would assume the flywheel is too. I believe the 2001 uses DC ignition, and 97 is AC.
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post #3 of 3 Old 02-01-2010, 05:08 PM
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10-11 Mileage:
09-10 Mileage: 1000
08-09 Mileage: 1000
07-08 Mileage: 1000
06-07 Mileage: 1000
You have to use the entire eletrical system if you switch i.e. stator/flywheel/cdi/tps/CDI/stator mounting plate ect..

Open Ignition: Newer style ignition including the 1998 and newer ZR’s, ZL’s , ZRT’s, T-Cats
A "normally open" ignition system. With this system a live wire goes from the ignition system to all of the switches. The switches are normally open, or not making connection, until in the "OFF" position. When in the "OFF" position the switch will ground the ignition wire to the chassis effectively "grounding out" the ignition system killing the spark. If a connecter becomes disconnected or if a wire gets cut then the switch will no longer turn off the engine. With the "normally closed" system if a connector comes loose or a wire gets cut the spark will stop until the wiring is repaired completing the circuit again.

Testing for all switch problems:
Just unplug the 4 prong connector

Closed Ignition: old style ignition 1997 and older.
A "normally closed" ignition which simply means that the wiring needs to have a closed circuit or uninterrupted circuit in order to run. If you cut any ignition wire in a "normally closed" system the engine will die because the power for the ignition runs through all of the switches; key, kill, tether, throttle safety switch, etc. If the connection to any of these is interrupted there will no longer be power to the ignition system and spark will cease. With the "normally closed" system if a connector comes loose or a wire gets cut the spark will stop until the wiring is repaired completing the circuit again. On the closed style ignition the center wire is the ground wire for both the kill switch and the throttle safety switch, so if you cut the center wire you are disabling both switches and opening the circuit so the engine won't run. All Cats 1997 and earlier run a closed ignition, with the exception of the 1997 ZR 580 that is open ignition,

Testing for all switch problems:
Unplug the 4 prong connector coming from the stator and put a jumper across the 2 wires that are not yellow.

“Mixing” the 2 ignitions
If you put a closed ignition (CDI and Stator) on an “open” ignition sled your sled will still run using the key to shut it off. The only hitch is that the key works backwards. If you unplug the 4 prong connection going to the switches, the sled will not run. Only on a complete “open” ignition can you unplug the 4 prong connector and still start the sled. I have a complete 93 ignition on a 2000 chassis and you can just unplug the 3 wire connector for the TSS/Kill switch in the handlebars and the sled will bypass the TSS and kill switch.
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