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Front heat exchanger

11K views 20 replies 12 participants last post by  unbreakable 
#1 ·
A while back I posted a front heat exchanger that I had repair for the tenth time. We began to talk about removing it. Well I'm back thinking about it. The volume is around 300 ml or 10 oz with a surface area of 105.625 (sq. inches) I would like to know if any of you have removed the front heat exchanger and added coolent capacity else where? I have a few ideas but would like to see what you have in mind. Keep in mind that this is for 1000 triples.
 
#6 ·
What about a automotive heater core? Also these are ideas I am looking for something that someone has done as I do not want to burn a sled down with trial and error. I don't have that kind or time and/or money. Thanks so far. We hard headed in the right direction. Lets see if someone can post a pic of what is out there.
 
#8 ·
Removed mine on my ZRT 900/1000 bore when droped and rolled my transfer chain case/drive chain mod 5 inches to fit my 3in track under the sled. I did however remount the cooler to under my tail. I coolant temps even running it hard won't reach about 180 and might reach 200 on a climb but I've never looked down to see. My Digatron limits are set to 210 for water, 9500 for rpm, and 1250 for egt
 
#9 ·
if its welded im pretty sure you can just by-pass it. doesnt the coolant go into it then out then down the tunnel exchanger? does it have the exchanger down the tunnel and one at the very rear. i would imagine that is enough? maybe a heater core wouldnt be such a bad idea?
 
#11 ·
I'm switching the OEM upper tunnel coolers to one of the FabCraft units. I already have it but haven't installed it yet.

It would be interesting to discover if this unit can remove enough btu/hr on it's own. Then I can remove the front tunnel cooler entirely and have the option of going to a taller track profile too.
 

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#13 ·
AG,

The concern with that set up is that it is more of a mountain set up, with regards to deep snow, track lug height, etc. What is your plan for tunnel protection? The fill/return rails are considerably wider than a stock unit leading to issues being wider than the clip centers on a stock unit. Plus your going to give up some mass centalization, with the amount of rear coolant with that unit. What about stock center fill/return plus add floor board coolers like on a F7?
 
#14 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MotorCityCat @ Nov 10 2009, 06:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
The concern with that set up is that it is more of a mountain set up, with regards to deep snow, track lug height, etc.[/b]
Actually, they make them for all sleds... Even short track flat-lander sleds like mine.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
What is your plan for tunnel protection? The fill/return rails are considerably wider than a stock unit leading to issues being wider than the clip centers on a stock unit.[/b]
I only run studs on the inside track belt, not the outsides. The inside width is the same width as the stock coolers have between them. I attached a pic with wider spacing as used on non-mountain sleds. Looks similar to the one I have. They built for exact fit, 1" ID in/out plumbing is positioned identically to stock, bend for ETT tunnel is perfect fit too..

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Plus your going to give up some mass centalization, with the amount of rear coolant with that unit.[/b]
I doubt centralized mass is going to be a big issue for me... Due to the limited availability of fuel in the remote areas where I ride, I always carry a 6 US Gal./25 Liter jerry can on the back rack. Also, I don't pursue a lot of significant air with this sled, so 'flickability' isn't a huge issue for me either. The pic below shows the gas rack at the back of the sled, where the heavy gas can lives on most all-day rides.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
What about stock center fill/return plus add floor board coolers like on a F7?[/b]
Floorboard coolers would be great if OEM parts fit my tunnel/floorboards nicely and without complications, but they don't and I don't know where to get raw finned 1" ID. stock either.

A rear one can always be added later if needed. All I have to do is cut the rear cross piece off that joins the two, and weld 1" ID outlets on them, and add a rear cooler possibly like the rear tunnel coolers used on some two-ups... I have a pic & part number of an excellent choice on my work computer. If I remember, I'll add it tomorrow morning.

But I doubt a rear one is needed as long as the front one is still there. I am considering removing it when the time for a new track comes. Eventually I want to go to a slightly taller lug and the clearance on these chassis' is tight.

A2 & B2 are for deeper lug tracks, and might work just fine concerning upper tunnel protection with a longer lug.
 

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#15 ·
Actually, they make them for all sleds... Even short track flat-lander sleds like mine.

I'll be more specific, the design is more for deep snow/mountain conditions that put more snow in the cooler.


What is your plan for tunnel protection? The fill/return rails are considerably wider than a stock unit leading to issues being wider than the clip centers on a stock unit.

I only run studs on the inside track belt, not the outsides. The inside width is the same width as the stock coolers have between them. I attached a pic with wider spacing as used on non-mountain sleds. Looks similar to the one I have. They built for exact fit, 1" ID in/out plumbing is positioned identically to stock, bend for ETT tunnel is perfect fit too..

Regardless your going to have issues with the outer sides of that design due to the fact that your track is going to hit that tunnel cooler.

Plus your going to give up some mass centalization, with the amount of rear coolant with that unit.

I doubt centralized mass is going to be a big issue for me... Due to the limited availability of fuel in the remote areas where I ride, I always carry a 6 US Gal./25 Liter jerry can on the back rack. Also, I don't pursue a lot of significant air with this sled, so 'flickability' isn't a huge issue for me either. The pic below shows the gas rack at the back of the sled, where the heavy gas can lives on most all-day rides.

What about stock center fill/return plus add floor board coolers like on a F7?

Floorboard coolers would be great if OEM parts fit my tunnel/floorboards nicely and without complications, but they don't and I don't know where to get raw finned 1" ID. stock either.

Scroll further down on the Fabcraft web-site page that you stole the picture from. $57 for 6 feet.

A rear one can always be added later if needed. All I have to do is cut the rear cross piece off that joins the two, and weld 1" ID outlets on them, and add a rear cooler possibly like the rear tunnel coolers used on some two-ups... I have a pic & part number of an excellent choice on my work computer. If I remember, I'll add it tomorrow morning.

Adding more weight to the rear of the sled, adding push in the turns.

But I doubt a rear one is needed as long as the front one is still there. I am considering removing it when the time for a new track comes. Eventually I want to go to a slightly taller lug and the clearance on these chassis' is tight.

A2 & B2 are for deeper lug tracks, and might work just fine concerning upper tunnel protection with a longer lug.

Moving the center of gravity even higher.
 
#16 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MotorCityCat @ Nov 9 2009, 08:41 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
A while back I posted a front heat exchanger that I had repair for the tenth time. We began to talk about removing it. Well I'm back thinking about it. The volume is around 300 ml or 10 oz with a surface area of 105.625 (sq. inches) I would like to know if any of you have removed the front heat exchanger and added coolent capacity else where? I have a few ideas but would like to see what you have in mind. Keep in mind that this is for 1000 triples.[/b]
It's a pretty easy job to add a cooler to the rear of the tunnel....I'm curious if that would be enough cooling after bypassing the front one though.

Another option is adding a cooler to the front of the belly pan. Take a look at Poo's new RUSH model to get an idea. I believe you could cut out a portion of the plastic belly pan without sacrificing the integrity of the chassis, and then slip a cooler in there.

One more option would be to install coolers up in the corners and the length of the tunnel, like the F7's had.
 
#17 ·
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MotorCityCat @ Nov 11 2009, 07:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
I'll be more specific, the design is more for deep snow/mountain conditions that put more snow in the cooler.
Which is exactly why it will work for a non-mountain sled too. More cooler surface area = more snow hitting the cooler, resulting in increased btu/hr heat removal, won't it? As far as I can tell, that is exactly what my sled needs considering how it overheats too easily. Also, a rear mounted cooler will put the weight of the cooler & coolant at the rear and as you mentioned and as we all know, less weight at the rear is better..

The stock coolers are borderline for the snow conditions we have in our area. What I have found is if the snow is sparse, and I can keep my speed up around 60-70 mph, the engine temps climb very slowly and are safe for quite a distance. If I drive slow with sparse snow, the temp guage will climb to unsafe temps in under a half mile. This reveals to me that if enough air is moved through the tunnel, the air alone can cool the sled but the stock cooling surface area is likely insufficient.

With more surface area the FabCraft cooler adds, air alone may be enough to cool the sled for the occaisonal low-snow road side runs we need to do to connect trails. The air alone at lower speeds may provide enough cooling if the finned surface area is greater. When the new cooler is installed, I will post the results... So we'll see how it turns out after a real world trial.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MotorCityCat @ Nov 11 2009, 07:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Regardless your going to have issues with the outer sides of that design due to the fact that your track is going to hit that tunnel cooler.[/b]
My current non OEM track doesn't have the lugs cut out that line up with the clips as the original AC OEM track did. The lugs have already been contacting the coolers for many years, as the ribs of the cooler fins wearing slight lines in the tips of the lugs is clearly visible so I know it makes contact but have yet to find damage.. It has not been a problem/issue for 8000 miles. I cannot foresee it becoming an issue. If there is, I will detect it and go from there.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MotorCityCat @ Nov 11 2009, 07:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Adding more weight to the rear of the sled, adding push in the turns. [/b]
I have been riding with the extra weight on the back for over 10000 miles, and yes, it is a handling handi-cap. Running out of gas on our long rides is an even greater handi-cap. Without gas, there will be no push in the turns at all!!! Sometimes there are unavoidable trade-offs. Just the way it goes.

This year I have a 6 USgal tank for the rear rack with a fuel barb in the bottom of the tank. I will be plumbing it into the breather line of the main tank to function in the same way a Tour Buddy works. This means while I ride, it will use the rear fuel first and will lessen the handling handicap issue.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MotorCityCat @ Nov 11 2009, 07:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Moving the center of gravity even higher.[/b]
Yes, but if I do end up getting a taller lugged track one day, it is just another unavoidable trade-off. Life isn't perfect, neither is any sled.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (MotorCityCat @ Nov 11 2009, 07:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Scroll further down on the Fabcraft web-site page that you stole the picture from.[/b]
Well, I suppose you can call it that if you insist. See the attached pic of the e-mail. Don't believe it? Think it's forged? Send Mike an e-mail to verify. :chug:
 

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#20 ·
My friend has a 1999 ZL600 Carb sled that a stud pulled out the track and went into the front Heat Exchanger. Being an old sled with lots of miles, we very easily bypassed the HE by removing/rerouting hoses. We then put about 20 miles [many doing 50mph +] in 30 degree F weather in about 5 inches of snowfall [hard packed trail]. No issues yet. I advised him to at least test the overheat idiot light system. Hope this helps.
 
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