Carb Sync - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 11-22-2008, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 104
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sled: 1996 zrt 600
07-08 Mileage: 100
06-07 Mileage: 70
ATV: none
I just finished cleaning all 3 carbs and am wondering how you sync them anyone know?
chaos_kev is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 11-26-2008, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 104
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sled: 1996 zrt 600
07-08 Mileage: 100
06-07 Mileage: 70
ATV: none
no?
chaos_kev is offline  
post #3 of 10 Old 11-26-2008, 08:33 PM
Senior Member
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Thief River Falls, Minnesota
Posts: 128
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ATV: 2015 TRV 700
From a service manual. Hope it helps.



Arclite is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 Old 11-26-2008, 09:24 PM
Senior Member
 
thundercat900's Avatar
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Guelph, Ont
Posts: 515
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sled: 93 Thundercat, 93 Wildcat EFI
Heres how I do them. First lay out all the carbs on the motor and install the needles(bell housings). Then I unscrew the idle screw(its on the side of the carb with a spring on it) so that the bells bottom out when you give it throttle and let off. Next adjust the cables so that all carbs move at the same time. This is done by loosening the nut on top of the bell housing on each carb. Not all may need adjusting, or none at all. Once done turn all the idle screws in 1.5 turns and re-install the carbs. Once the carbs are in and ready to go blow into the tank(or vent line or pull it over 50times) to fill up the lines and carb bowls. Once done you can pull it over and start it, at first it may not idle so keep turning up the idle screws until the sled idles where you want it to.

Preferably local, PM me

1993 Thundercats- 02 ZR front and rear suspension upgrade
1993 Wildcat EFI- 02 ZR skid
2001 Dodge Ram Cummins 2500 4x4 pushin over 400hp and 830tq
thundercat900 is offline  
post #5 of 10 Old 11-26-2008, 09:25 PM
Senior Member
 
thundercat900's Avatar
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Guelph, Ont
Posts: 515
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sled: 93 Thundercat, 93 Wildcat EFI
make sure you cleaned the pilot jet, it often gets overlooked.

Preferably local, PM me

1993 Thundercats- 02 ZR front and rear suspension upgrade
1993 Wildcat EFI- 02 ZR skid
2001 Dodge Ram Cummins 2500 4x4 pushin over 400hp and 830tq
thundercat900 is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 11-26-2008, 09:45 PM
Senior Member
 
topzr's Avatar
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 467
Thanks: 0
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Sled: 09 CFR10 10 snopro 500, 05 Saber, 03 F7
10-11 Mileage: 1000
09-10 Mileage: 1500
08-09 Mileage: 850
07-08 Mileage: 1300
06-07 Mileage: 900
You can adjust the idle with the carbs prior to installing them, but you must adjust the slides in place. Moving the cable will change the slide position. I use a 1/16" drill bit to adjust the idle screw on all three carbs. That will get you close, next install the carbs. Use a tie wrap or a hose clamp and pin the throttle wide open. Adjust the cables until the bottom of the slide is even with the top of the carb. Take off the clamp and give the throttle a couple of good squeezes. Take your fingers and place in two carbs against the slides. Squeese the throtttle the slides should move at the same time, do the same between the last two carbs. Another way is to follow the above procedure but then take a 3/8" drill bit and slide it into one carb, open the throttle until the drill bit barely slides between the carb and the bottom of the slide. lock your throttle in that position and check the other two carbs. Adjust accordingly. The drill bit method gets them really really spot on for me. Also take note that unless you have a throttle rail, turning the steering will change your syncronization. There is nothing you can really do about that. When jacket of the throttle cable moves or changes positon it can take up slack on the cable inside. Just make sure your bars are straight prior to adjusting. I used to drag race my sled and I discovered this one day. Good luck
topzr is offline  
post #7 of 10 Old 11-26-2008, 10:06 PM
Senior Member
 
Scott S's Avatar
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Posts: 491
Thanks: 3
Thanked 50 Times in 40 Posts
Sled: 03 ZR 900 and 12 F1100
ATV: Rental Car lol
I've done it a few ways.

Goal, sync cylinders, then cables - check idle again and off idle flow.

Syncing the carbs is setting each cylinders idle air flow to be the same. Syncing the cables does not sync the cylinders, only insures maximum slide opening.

1) Cheap and Cheery
I used to use a long section of hose about 6 ft or so ran to a board 18" long and around the lid from a baby food bottle. The hose went from the bottom side by side straight up to the lid and around forming a loop. Both ends must be the exact same length. I marked the board at 1/16 intervals then filled the hose with green antifreeze - enough to go around the cap and into the hoses just past the first mark.

I use a long section of hose so the motor does not ingest the antifreeze used as an indicator before you can get the cylinders synchronized. If they are way off the antifreeze will flow towards the highest vacuum and if not corrected will be ingested.

To use hook one side to a vent/primer barb on one carb and the other to another carb. Start the engine and the vacuum will draw the antifreeze one way or the other. Adjust the carbs till they are the same idle and set cables so they are adjusted so the slides open fully. Make sure you allow for the safety switch to function properly. To do a triple do the center and pto then center and mag using center as reference. I bring the motor off idle and recheck. Cables should be set so they start to move at precisely the same moment from the base line set by the flow meter at idle.

I now have a Edlebrock airflow meter that goes over the carb inlet and measures the flow with a ball in a tube set up. Adjust so that all carbs have the same air flow measurement and sync cables.

Do not adjust cables so there is no play at idle. Set to sleds spec.

Always check that slides return to idle position when setting cables as sled could take off when started if idle is forced high by open slides.
Scott S is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 11-26-2008, 11:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: alaska
Posts: 1,239
Thanks: 20
Thanked 50 Times in 50 Posts
Sled: Arctic cat
10-11 Mileage: 06 fire cat/908 miles
09-10 Mileage: 2011 sp 600
ATV: 1000/w tracks
2007 Mileage: 25
2006 Mileage: 65
one of the best carb tools i ever used was from rpc performance, it was yellow and had a glass tube bent like a u on the plastic board, it had 2 hoses on the ends filled with glycole, the you buy a carb adaptor to fit on the side of the carbs, hook up the unit to the carbs and start it watch the tool and adjust .
c gooden is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 01-16-2009, 10:38 AM
Member
 
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 72
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sled: 05 Firecat F6 EFI
10-11 Mileage:
09-10 Mileage: 150
where on the carb you attach the rubber hose to check the vacuum. Also which screw you adjust to sync the carbs.
zomowiec is offline  
post #10 of 10 Old 01-16-2009, 06:42 PM
Team ArcticChat
 
wisccatman's Avatar
Team ArcticChat
 
Team ArcticChat
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: dresser wisconsin
Posts: 208
Thanks: 1
Thanked 7 Times in 6 Posts
Sled: 1989 el tigre 530
10-11 Mileage: 600
09-10 Mileage: 500
08-09 Mileage: 200
07-08 Mileage: 125
06-07 Mileage: 250
ATV: none
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (zomowiec @ Jan 16 2009, 12:38 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Quote:
where on the carb you attach the rubber hose to check the vacuum. Also which screw you adjust to sync the carbs.[/b]
I have a piece of mirror I use, just watch and see if all the carb's valves are dropping at the same time and in the same spot in the throat of the carb.I have been doing this for year's,learned it from a polaris mechanic,good luck.
wisccatman is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum > Snowmobiles > Arctic Cat Snowmobiles > Z/ZL/ZR/ZRT/Tcat/EXT/jag/cougar

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome