2006 F6 EFI has no spark! - ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum

XFR/Firecat/Sabercat Regular 128" XF / Firecat/Sabercat chassis

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post #1 of 3 Old 11-28-2012, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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2006 F6 EFI has no spark!

OK, I have a 2006 firecat f6 efi and i was riding one day and it was like someone hit the kill switch on me, and just died.. after this it would not start, later realizing i have no spark.. but the thing is i will have spark ONCE in a while, say 1 out of every 50 pulls....weird... I have 2 coils and switched between the two and still nothing the odds of both coils being bad is slim to none... I put the ecu on another f6 efi and the other sled fired right up, so that eliminates the ecu.. I checked the ground on the back of the case, its intact and good. When i pull the sled over the headlights nor the gauge clust illuminate.. I was told the stators on these sleds RARELY go bad and if they do its because they were damaged... I have not checked the stator but Im really not sure where to start or what to do... Anyone have any ideas of what i can do.... I want my sled to run!!!!
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post #2 of 3 Old 11-28-2012, 11:05 PM
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Stators are fairly easy to test using a basic multimeter. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight sells a surprisingly decent one for ~$5. Reads nearly identical to my $100 Fluke meter.

Pull the connector that leads to the stator to expose the terminals. Usually three wires that are typically all black or yellow. Set the multimeter to say 100k ohms scale. Put one lead on a good ground, then touch the other to each terminal/leg of the stator. All should be "no circuit" or infinite ohms. If there is ANY continuity, the stator is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced. For a control, touch the probe to the engine case just to ensure the other lead was on good ground.

If that checks out, set it to it's lowest ohm scale, usually 200 ohms or less. Of the three prongs, test ohms between 1/2, 2/3, and 1/3. Sure there's a spec in the manual somewhere, but typically you're looking for .5-1.5 ohms on each leg. Zero ohms means a winding is shorted. Much higher and it's probably burnt. All three legs should be very similar to each other...if one is considerably different, it's probably bad.

Stators don't go bad often but when they do, they can cause all sorts of wacky hard to identify problems, especially on EFI motors.

If you're getting nothing from the headlights when pulling it over, you may have a short-to-ground somewhere in the system. Realize it's not applicable here, but my Sabercat had a wire break for the reverse beeper sensor, which would rub on the tunnel, resulting in the headlights and gauge cluster randomly flickering on and off, though the motor would run fine(it was carb though). Inspect wire routings, anything near the frame or tunnel for breaks or rub-throughs.

Since you ruled out ECU and the coil pack, I'm thinking stator.

~Current Ride~
'06 Crossfire 7 snopro

Last edited by RaWarrior; 11-28-2012 at 11:08 PM.
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post #3 of 3 Old 11-28-2012, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I'll test it and see what happens.. Hopefully i dont have a short in the wiring harness somewhere that ill have to hunt down.. Electrical is mind boggling, especially when you arent very good with it.
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