Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Upstate NY
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Stators are fairly easy to test using a basic multimeter. If you don't have one, Harbor Freight sells a surprisingly decent one for ~$5. Reads nearly identical to my $100 Fluke meter.
Pull the connector that leads to the stator to expose the terminals. Usually three wires that are typically all black or yellow. Set the multimeter to say 100k ohms scale. Put one lead on a good ground, then touch the other to each terminal/leg of the stator. All should be "no circuit" or infinite ohms. If there is ANY continuity, the stator is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced. For a control, touch the probe to the engine case just to ensure the other lead was on good ground.
If that checks out, set it to it's lowest ohm scale, usually 200 ohms or less. Of the three prongs, test ohms between 1/2, 2/3, and 1/3. Sure there's a spec in the manual somewhere, but typically you're looking for .5-1.5 ohms on each leg. Zero ohms means a winding is shorted. Much higher and it's probably burnt. All three legs should be very similar to each other...if one is considerably different, it's probably bad.
Stators don't go bad often but when they do, they can cause all sorts of wacky hard to identify problems, especially on EFI motors.
If you're getting nothing from the headlights when pulling it over, you may have a short-to-ground somewhere in the system. Realize it's not applicable here, but my Sabercat had a wire break for the reverse beeper sensor, which would rub on the tunnel, resulting in the headlights and gauge cluster randomly flickering on and off, though the motor would run fine(it was carb though). Inspect wire routings, anything near the frame or tunnel for breaks or rub-throughs.
Since you ruled out ECU and the coil pack, I'm thinking stator.
'06 Crossfire 7 snopro
Last edited by RaWarrior; 11-28-2012 at 11:08 PM.