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XFR/Firecat/Sabercat Regular 128" XF / Firecat/Sabercat chassis

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Old 01-02-2011, 06:21 AM   #1
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chaincase,driveshaft,jackshaft bearings.

Alright guys,got about 4700 miles on my 03 firecat f7 and im thinkin its time to do some bearings.Could someone give me some pointers before i start tearin into it.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:31 AM   #2
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Sled: 2006 f7 sno pro, 2001 zr800\1010,05f7
loosen the rear wheel adjustment bolts all the way,drain the oil,pull the skid out,take your secondary off,take the chaincase cover off ,back off the chain tension bolt,unhook your chain tension spring, little cotter pin,dont lose it,remove the gears ,lock your brake to do it,pay attention the way they come out,make sure they go back in that way,take the 3 bolts out on each side,on the chain case side there will be a o-ring dont tear it,once ya got the bolts out on both sides,go under your sled and slide the cog shaft to the chain case side,let the clutch side come down,and pull it out,replace the bearings,,i put a little silicone around that o-ring when i put it back in,then the fun begins,ya get to put it back together,couple hours you or or a few beers you will be done,finger tight on the chain tension bolt and lock the nut,dont forget the oil,good luck,its not that bad,ya might have a couple of bloody knuckels but that builds character,im sure i probly forgot something,,if ya dont have a manual it is a good idea to have for that kinda off stuff,
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:53 PM   #3
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Changing Track on Firecat

Good thread to read also, with pics.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:10 AM   #4
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Some of the bearings can be bought at any auto parts store for a fraction of what Cat charges. Just take thebearing with you and give them the number off the bearing.(ex. RA100RRB, fafnir number)

I hadto get the bearing for the bottom gear in the chaincase straight from cat (they updated this bearing it has a seal instead of dual O rings)
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:25 PM   #5
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Bearings for the ZR chassis could be bought cheaper from the auto parts store...not the case for the F Chassis. I searched high and low and the only place that had them available was the stealer ship. You will need a press to remove and replace the non-chain case side where the speedo pick up is.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:07 PM   #6
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 Quote: Originally Posted by shimxtr1 View Post
Bearings for the ZR chassis could be bought cheaper from the auto parts store...not the case for the F Chassis. I searched high and low and the only place that had them available was the stealer ship. You will need a press to remove and replace the non-chain case side where the speedo pick up is.
You can get a full bearing set from all balls racing (not 100% sure of the name) for almost half the cost of OEM. Also, you don't need a press for that bearing... but it may require a punch to get it off, the new one will go on easy with a very thin layer of grease (may need a light tap to seat it all the way.. use a 2 X 4 for something flat over the bearing to take the blow from the hammer)

Just did mine last night.. but chose to use OEM bearings.
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:25 PM   #7
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carquest got me mine! all four of the ones i needed and since i tear mine down for a overhaul every other season i figured off brand would be ok!
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:35 PM   #8
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I normally am good for 3 years 9000 miles before changing the 4 bearings (jackshaft and drive shaft).
I find people change them too often, getting scared as those used to be problematic on past frames (wildcats and others...)
At that point I do not, I change snowmachine every 3 years/9000 miles.
But my girlfriend 2004 sabercat, I did change the 4 bearings after 4 years and 8,500 miles (she does not do as much mileage as me and want to keep her sabercat, she likes it). Bearings were not like new but probably would have been good for another year.
Today I just changed the jackshaft and jackshaft bearings (now 6 years and 12,500 miles) It was not planned for another 2 years but the jackshaft got chewed up 1/8 of an inch dia. on the clutch side bearing seat and got loose in the bearing. Bearings were still like new.
if you want my opinion, change the jack shaft at the same time for not much more money, it comes with bearing/spacer/key all pre-mounted nice and tight. At a minimum, a little bit of locktite on the shaft prior to mounting the bearing will ensure you will be good for years. These bearings are not locked on the shaft in any way like they used to with the colar and set screw.
Do not overtighten any nut, studs are very easy to strip or break, especially the ones inside the chain case, with thin nuts on top of that. use lock tight instead of tightening too much.
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