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XFR/Firecat/Sabercat Regular 128" XF / Firecat/Sabercat chassis

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Old 01-16-2007, 07:55 PM   #1
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Sled is an 04 F6 Snopro.
Problem is that it doesn't turn worth a **** and seems to have no ski pressure.
Stock running gear except for dual runner carbides.

Let me start off by saying that I did a search and didn't find exactly what I'm looking for. I also know that buying a set of aftermarket skis is the "best" thing to do but I'm not going to do it.....I have already put enough into this sled and I'm not going to spend more for the 3" of snow we get per year these days.

That being said....I want to pull in my limiter straps to get more ski pressure.

FOR THOSE WHO HAVE PULLED IN THE STRAPS....HOW FAR DID YOU GO?

Thanks!
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Current Sled:
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Previous Sleds:
2004 Arctic Cat F6 EFI Snopro
1998 Yamaha SRX 600
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1995 Polaris XCR 600
1991 Yamaha Phazer
1989 Polaris Indy Trail
1973 Yamaha GP 338
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:35 PM   #2
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Personally, I think it's worth getting these: http://www.gripnripracing.com/product_info...;products_id=48


Infinite adjustability and a well made product.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:38 PM   #3
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First off, if its TURNING you're after, get rid of the Dooley's. All they do is spread out the weight at the keel of the ski allowing it to push. I'd suggest some shapers and pull your straps UP one hole and see how you like it.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:51 PM   #4
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I have the exact same sled and same issue. I put 8" woody's and lifted the strap up 1". Got greatly improved steering. My only problem is in snow covered corners it barely pushes and turns good. On icy corners the sled gets very "tippy". I'm hanging out all the way and still very close to going over. I come in hard, slam the brake to set the front and then hammer the gas. Very unpredictable compared to the ZR chassis. I decided this year to get the Razors, put the straps back to stock, throw the blocks in the trash and leave my friends REV in the mirror. I think I'm close to getting it close but need to find out if the talk on Ski's is true. Hope I made the right choice.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:55 PM   #5
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I pulled my straps up (1 3/4 inches) until I had about 18-24 inches of studs making contact with the concrete floor in my garage. When I sit on the sled the rear drops around 3 inches and the entire track makes contact with the floor.

Keeping in mind that I lowered my front end (2 3/4 inches of thread below the ring) to match the med setting on my torsion springs (trail rider,,,,). Doing this brought the front of the skid into play too much,,, gave me a teeter-totter in the corners.

Before you tighten the strap,, how many threads showing below the ring on your front skid shock,,, this should be set to aprox 5mm of preload which is just over two threads. If that spring is wound tight pulling the strap up an inch may not do anything for you.

by the way,,, I drive a STD not the SP. If you are set up for jumping you don't want to pull the strap too tight. If your rear torsion springs are set on Stiff,, you might just have to raise your front end up to match the rear.

A test I like to do to start off with suspension adjustments is to slowly lift the back of the sled off the ground. Your track should come off the ground (front and back) at the same time - or - the front of the track comes off before the rear. If the rear comes off first you have too much in the front which will be hell in the corners,,,, this of depends on how much downward pressure is pushing on the front of the skid.

yah I know BLAH BLAH BLAH. only my 2-cents,,

hope this helps

JDM
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:53 PM   #6
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Jaydeem: you just get started and you think Blah Blah Blah, you are making perfect sense! Great explaination seriously!

cc-rider: I pulled my straps up to the second hole of three (it's an '03 F7 SnoPro). You could mess with the coupler block too there are three settings you can use. I set mine on the #3 position but have yet to ride with the lack of snow. The couplers will only work to limit the weight transfer to the rear on acceleration. Higher the position the less transfer. I have the front ski springs about 3.5" from the bottom of the collar of the shock, front skid shock loose like Jaydeem said, about 2 threads, also 1/4" toe out on the ski's measured from the outside ski saddle about 5" from the spindle each way (most reliable place to measure). I posted a thread on "how do you have your firecat set-up?" on this forum, see if the search feature will find it. Some good info.
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:03 AM   #7
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Thanks SLNCAPRI...

I've spent some time on HCS and these forums are great,,, they sure get you thinking about alot more stuff.

Sometimes I tend to write too much,, I'm not good a short answers.......

JDM
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:24 AM   #8
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If I were to get some stud boy shapers....what length carbide would you suggest? 1.375 snopro track...not studded with stock skis.

Thanks for the input so far.
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Current Sled:
2008 Ski-Doo MXZX 800R

Previous Sleds:
2004 Arctic Cat F6 EFI Snopro
1998 Yamaha SRX 600
1997 Ski-Doo MXZ 440
1995 Polaris XCR 600
1991 Yamaha Phazer
1989 Polaris Indy Trail
1973 Yamaha GP 338
19?? Arctic Cat Panther
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Old 01-18-2007, 01:03 PM   #9
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I'd prob go with the 7.5" carbides.
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1971 Massey-Ferguson Formula Three 400 JLO Fan Twin:You gotta start somewhere
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:37 AM   #10
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How does taking out the sway bar and stiffening up the front shocks all the way do for handleing and turning?
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