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Old 11-27-2011, 10:30 AM   #1
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Grease in the bolt hole clutch trick....?

Alright, i read about this the other day on here and decided to try it on my hex clutch. I removed the bolt, put teflon tape on the threads making sure it was uniform to get a good seal. Then i used a grease gun and filled the hole completely full. Put the bolt in and was glad to see it took quite a bit of pressure to push the bolt in far enough to get to the threads and start the bolt. I threaded the bolt in a few turns and tapped on the clutch with a hammer. Continued to do this until the bolt was all the way seated down... No luck.... I tried it four times doing it just like that and it never came off.. How many people have done this and it actually worked? And was that on a late 70's sled or one much newer?
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:39 PM   #2
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I've never used the grease method, too hard to clean up for me. 80w90 gear oil and a rag behind the clutch has worked every time for me.
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:58 PM   #3
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Like AZ said you need the puller works best. As its pulling and the grease is pushing in all directions The bolt that holds in on will only pull it on farther as its threaded into the crank. you want to thread into clutch and push against the crank
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:59 PM   #4
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Sled: 1997 Powder Extreme, 72 Panther
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I've tipped the sled on its' side and filled the hole w/ gearlube. Did it to a 72 Panther w/ a 440 Kawi and also a Polaris Star. Both times I ended up taking the bolt out & topping up the fluid. You'll need to wrap a towel around the crank to catch some of the oil but it does work and no matter how careful you are, it seems that there's always a slight mess to clean up afterwards.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:45 AM   #5
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I've used grease before in with great success. I used a syringe with grease in it, the ones they give you when you get your wisdom teeth take out. Make sure all the grease is out, your going to need a long bolt, and you might have to do it many times to get a good seal and remove all the air, but it works.
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Old 11-29-2011, 05:05 AM   #6
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I was using the original bolt that goes in the end of the clutch. Its a hex clutch actually. Put the white teflon or thread tape on all the threads. Then using a grease gun, filled the hole completely up. Inserted the taped original bolt and it does take quite a bit of pressure to push it in far enough to start the threads. But started the threads, turned it a couple times then tapped on it a few times with a hammer.. Tightened another couple turns and tapped a few times with a hammer. Did this until the bolt seated down, cause obviously it isnt gonna pop off if the retaining bolt is torqued on.. Revomed the bolt, added more grease to refill the hole, checked the teflon tape, and did it all over again like i just described. I did this FOUR times and it never came off. The engine is still mounted in the sled. My grease gun actually has a really good fit into the bolt hole. The first time filling it actually developed some small pressure from the tight fit and filling the cavity and the grease gun popped outta the hole. I'm sure i'm filling the cavity full with grease, but this trick just isnt working for me. Could it just be that the clutch is rusted or kinda siezed on there enough that this trick wont work???
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:19 AM   #7
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You either need the correct puller:hex clutch puller | eBay

or, use a bolt that fits in the threaded stem of the clutch.
Visualize what you're trying to do here. You fill the cavity with grease (or oil) and then you are threading in a teflon taped bolt that WILL NOT engage the crank shaft threads. As you tighten the bolt, you are trying compress a liquid, which you cannot do. The result should be that something has to move, usually the clutch popping off the crank shaft.
You cannot use the original mounting bolt, as it will engage the crank threads and all you're doing is compressing the grease you put in there and nothing can move because you have captured the clutch onto the crank.
Make sense??
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:56 AM   #8
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OK, i thought people were using the original clutch bolt and it was popping off in the inch or so of thread before the bolt actually seats the head down. But ppl are using a bolt the same diameter and thread as the clutch puller, right?? A bolt slightly bigger than the original retaing bolt and it threads in the same hole as the original bolt, but on the outter edge, not deep inside to the crank... Is that right?

Last edited by Scottbrock; 11-29-2011 at 09:00 AM.
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:34 AM   #9
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 Quote: Originally Posted by Scottbrock View Post
OK, i thought people were using the original clutch bolt and it was popping off in the inch or so of thread before the bolt actually seats the head down. But ppl are using a bolt the same diameter and thread as the clutch puller, right?? A bolt slightly bigger than the original retaing bolt and it threads in the same hole as the original bolt, but on the outter edge, not deep inside to the crank... Is that right?
Correct, it will thread into the clutch stem,not the crank shaft end.
Look at the clutch puller; see how the small end fits inside the crank but it's not threaded?
See how the threaded part is a bigger diameter? Thats what threads into the fixed sheave/stem of the clutch.
With using oil/grease, all you are doing is eliminating the lower part of the puller, using hydraulic force instead of the mechanical force of the puller. You'll need to get some of the grease out so you can get a bolt down in far enough to catch the threads on the clutch.

I believe the bolt you need is 9/16" dia, with 18 threads per inch (fine thread)
I use grade 8 bolts from Fastenal as they usually have rolled threads, not cut ones. Also not as soft and as likely to strip out as a cheap bolt.

Last edited by 88eltigre; 11-29-2011 at 09:38 AM.
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