I'm looking for an aftermarket clutch kit for my 2016 Arctic Cat Core 500 4wd. It is stock except for 27" Maxxis Zilla tires. It mostly gets utility use, plowing snow and dragging pastures. I've noticed after extended use, the clutch cover gets very hot, I can smell rubber, and there is belt slippage. It has just 20 hours on it.
Here are some pics i have from when i took it apart, I too am looking for a clutch kit for this. I have called a Kymco dealer and they said they have not heard of a kit made for these or the MXU 450i specifically. Im thinking of making my own but really no zip all about clutches. I do have an old 2011 mudpro clutch with the weights and springs
I had AIRDAM machine my clutch for my Kymco MXU 450i. Before I sent my clutch in I tried 2.2mm of washers which seemed to make a lot of difference on the bottom end. Then I pulled the weights and drilled two 1/8th inch holes all the way thru, 4 holes total. Lightening the weights so it turned up a hundred or two more rpm before engaging. That helped also. When I decided to go with AIRDAM I had messaged him two or three times with no response. So I bit the bullet and took a chance. Bought a used Artic Cat 450 sheave set off Ebay. Sent it in with payment and enough to cover shipping back. Best of my memory it took maybe 4-6 weeks for the sheaves to return. All I can say is that was a huge difference (way more than the shims) and worth every penny. Including the wait and stress of would they come back.
My understanding, unless something changed, the Arctic Cat 500 uses the Kymco 450 engine CVT. I purchased the stage 1 only. I cut and had a local welding shop fix my plate for me. I lightened my own rollers. If I had it to do again I might have just sent everything in. But, stage 1 made a huge difference to me on my machine. Way more than just shimming it.
Any chance you can further explain the drilling of the weights? I was kind of confused the way you said it drilling 2 holes all the way through 4 holes total? And did you by chance weigh them after you drilled then?
Yes make sure you weigh them and make them exact. Yes drill all the way through the roller.
Yon also just remove two rollers directly across from each other. That will give you an idea what it will be like before you drill them out.
Read this
I just sent Airdam my fixed plate.While I have this apart should I drill out the rollers? What will this do? Should I shim also? How do I drill out the rollers? Everything is stock on this.
Yes, you tap the metal piece out of the plastic sleeve. Drill thru the weight, which is the center piece. I used a bench grinder to deburr the drilled holes before reinstalling. You can also buy lighter weights. Drilling is lots cheaper. The lighter the weights the more rpm it takes to engage.
I asked epi and they don't make weights for that clutch. I emailed Adam from airdam yesterday and within 4 hours we had a 6 email conversation going, he was very helpful and informative so I have decided to send him my weights, sheaves and plate. Can't wait to get it all back. The other thing I'm doing is taking apart my secondary and move the spring one notch to add more tension
This is a pretty easy mod to do and will cost you a few hours work and less then 10 bucks from a hardware store. When I completed the mod, I lost a tiny bit of top end, but it added so much pull to the bottom I literally could not believe it. From just off idle to almost WOT it flat rips...
this is a video of how to take the clutches off your arctic cat atv/utv i'm trying to make some informative videos that will help guys in different areas with your bikes. installation video is loading now will be updated later http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTkw-yTk8Yo
I have seen those vids before, that EPI video I shared earlier in this thread shows you how to do secondary spring as well on the Kymco LFA 5#1 specifically.
I would just like to say this is my first time using this forum and you guys have been awesome, thank you!