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Old 03-30-2009, 03:36 PM   #1
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I have looked around for some step-by-step instruction on adjusting valves on a 2007 650 H1 - I have not had it done and have 750 miles on mine so I guess it should be done? Is there anything with pics?
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:44 PM   #2
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:47 PM   #3
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I heard that they are supposed to be adjusted after 100 miles - my bike seems to be running fine - just don't want to have any issues.
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:04 PM   #4
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Here ya go.

I first remove the front plastic to give extra room and light for the project. Clean every thing off, you don't want dirt and crude falling into the engine when you have valve covers off.
[attachment=125697:ready_fo...e_adjust.jpg]
[attachment=125698:tore_down_side.jpg]
Two views of the tear down.

You may not need to tear off the plastic, when adjusting the 400 M I had more room then I do with the 650. It is good time to clean every thing out and inspect frame for cracks and everything else for leaks. when tore down to this level, access and lighting is much better I think.

I also remove the rope starter cover to access the dogs, much easier to turn the engine over. Just place a pry bar in the dog teeth to turn it over. Also remove the spark plug so you are not fighting compression. Remove the valve covers for intake and exhaust. Don't loose the O-ring seal on the covers.
[attachment=125699:rope_starter_dogs.jpg]
Rope starter off exposing Dog teeth

Remove the inspection port plug to view the timing mark and align the mark up in the window. Make sure you are TDC on the compression stroke, not TDC on the exhaust stroke, if on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valves will be depressed, and valve open. when on the compression stroke both intake and exhaust will have a little play or clearance if valves are not too far out of whack.
[attachment=125700:Timing_m...d_center.jpg]
TDC timing mark in center of inspection plug.

The engine must be cold, at room temperature. It doesn't matter if you adjust exhaust or intake first. I use a go-no go method when setting clearance, if my desired clearance is 0.005" I can slip a 0.004" in feeler gauge in with a little or almost no resistance, A 0.005" feeler will have some resistance and a 0.006 will not fit at all. This would result in a tight 0.005 clearance. When using your feeler gauges, keep the gauge flat in the gap or at right angle to the valve stem. There are 2 exhaust valves opened by one rocker arm, make sure both valves are set at the same clearance.
[attachment=125701:Exhaust_Valves.jpg]
Exhaust valves

To adjust loosen the top lock nut and turn the center stud one way or the other depending if you are too tight or too loose, snug the lock nut and re-measure, repeat as necessary. When measuring your final setting the lock nut must be tight When happy, make sure lock nut is tight, reinstall valve covers and your plastic, rope starter and you should be good to go. If you do not have a rope starter I still recommend you take the left side cover off and turn the engine over with a socket wrench, much easier to align the timing mark.There are 2 intake valves opened by one rocker arm, make sure both valves are set at the same clearance.
[attachment=125702:Intake_valves.jpg]
Intake Valves

I'll spend about 3 hours on a job like this, most of the time is just preparing for adjustment, cleaning and putting everything back together. You can get a valve adjustment tool from your dealer that makes adjusting a little easier (no feelers required) but I trust the feeler gauges myself for better accuracy.

The method above should be the same on nearly every cat, They except those that have shims that you use to adjust clearance. I'm not sure about the 366, DVX or the 300's 250s or smaller, they may be the same as the 400's, 500's 650H1's 700H1, and Tcat or may use shims. When on a 2 cylinder engine, there are two TDC timing marks, front cylinder and rear cylinder, do each independently.

When I took these pictures there was about 350 miles on the H1, some of the valves were a little looser some were a little tighter, (top and bottom of recommended range) But all were still within recommended range of 3 thousands of an inch. When I was done, all valves were set exactly in the middle of the recommended range. I don't know if the clearance changed during break-in or if it was just a mediocre job adjusting at the factory where they just set them close but not equal.
Attached Thumbnails
Valve Adjustment-ready_for_valve_adjust.jpg   Valve Adjustment-tore_down_side.jpg   Valve Adjustment-rope_starter_dogs.jpg   Valve Adjustment-timing_mark_on_top_dead_center.jpg   Valve Adjustment-exhaust_valves.jpg  

Valve Adjustment-intake_valves.jpg  
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Last edited by Wyo_H1_Cat; 04-06-2012 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 03-30-2009, 04:22 PM   #5
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Well as for me I have never had to do my valves on my H1. I have done them before on other machines. But if it is not broke don't fix it. Something in the range of 3500 miles on my ATV and it still runs solid. Starts easy and gets good fuel mileage. The guys I bought mine from who I would say ar the best when it comes to snow machine and atv work here in Alaska say the same thing. It is the only ATV dealer I know anywhere in North America that is open 7 days a week 365 days a year.
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Old 03-30-2009, 10:24 PM   #6
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I've got almost 3100 miles on my 500 and haven't touched a thing because it runs great with no valve noise what so ever, super quiet for that many miles.. when I hear it starting to make a ticking noise I will have it done then, until then I will ride it and not worry about it !!!
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:05 PM   #7
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Actually tight valves could be worse than loose ones. I dont have enough experience with cats to know if there is a trend with them or not. If hard starting or backfiring is an issue, they are probably tight. My wifes 400 has 3800 miles and all is good. My used 650 I bought may need an adjustment and it has 300 miles on it. Im not looking forward to it, but Wyo, thanks for the info!
BTW, do 650`s tend to have tight valves or not??
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:44 AM   #8
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
 Quote:
Actually tight valves could be worse than loose ones. I dont have enough experience with cats to know if there is a trend with them or not. If hard starting or backfiring is an issue, they are probably tight. My wifes 400 has 3800 miles and all is good. My used 650 I bought may need an adjustment and it has 300 miles on it. Im not looking forward to it, but Wyo, thanks for the info!
BTW, do 650`s tend to have tight valves or not??[/b]
You are right a valve that is not noisy could be a tight valve, and the worse condition to have for potential damage and cost wise. It's when you cannot hear the valve is when I get most nervous. tight valves could lead to leakage, loss of compression, burned valves and valve seats. I'll check for noise from time to time with a screwdriver handle up against my ear and the tip on a valve cover listening for a good quiet tick. If too quiet I'll do a valve adjustment if too noisy I'll do a valve adjustment. If too loose probably wont need a screwdriver to hear it. Speaking of two bikes and 2 atv's here. A person could put on 10,000 miles with no problems or a 1000 miles and require a valve job. Hard to say, feeling lucky? It's not a hard job or difficult at all. Just a little time consuming.

In 18000 miles I've done my bike once, my GF's bike once with 2000 on it. My 650H once, and have not done the Tcat yet. My old 400 I required it twice in about 2000 miles but had lots of hours on it bladeing snow. Forward and reverse all for hours at a time 3-5 times a week all winter long that never accumulated any miles. Intakes were noisy and exhaust got tight on it
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:53 PM   #9
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what are the consequences of improperly adjusted (loose or tight) valves? HP loss? risk of bending the valve? Timing?


Edit: Nevermind, found this:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
 Quote:
What Is "Valve Lash"?
[RB] Valve lash is the mechanical clearance between the cam lobe and valve stem or transfer rocker when the valve is fully closed. It's usually checked with a feeler gauge and is some non-zero value on with "mechanical" non-self adjusting valve lifter mechanisms.

Differential expansion characteristics cause the cold clearance to be different than the running clearance and margin is built in to make sure their is always some clearance, especially on exhaust valves. An exhaust valve that doesn't close completely doesn't transfer enough heat back to the head and can "burn".

Cam lobes have entry and exit profiles (called ramps) which are designed to limit the opening and closing acceleration of the valve to limit mechanical stress and also noise. Still, the tighter you set the valve lash (less clearance) the more open valve duration you get which tends to boost top end performance slightly. The looser you set the valve lash the more bottom end is boosted and the more valve train noise you get.

If you have all the valves adjusted too tight idle quality and low end performance may suffer slightly with an attendant small gain in top end horsepower. Looser valve lash does the opposite and results in a noisier valve train.

If you have some tight and some loose that might also effect smoothness since different cyclinders will have different power contributions at different RPMs. Some of the above is a little simplified but you get the drift.[/b]
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Old 04-20-2009, 03:05 PM   #10
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I wonder too what might be the ramifications of poorly adjusted valves. I have a machine with less that 200 miles on it and sometimes when I turn it over to start it it just kinda stops turning over and makes like this coughing sound. Then if I try to turn it over again it makes a partial revolution and stops again.

Eventually it starts, usually doesnt take much time. It often does this when turning it off as well.

Kinda strange, my dad's first thought were valves out of adjustment.
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