Took bike out for little tour first ride for me, started and ran beautifully for about an hour then stalled while idling through a very tame trail. Turned over but no restart. Towed to road where it sat for maybe half hour then fired right up and ran beautifully like nothing happened. Previous owner says this happened to him often. I'm committed to finding and fixing this...suggestions?
ok this is a good one. first thing you have to find is what you are loosing.my guess is fuel but lets do some test first. keep a spark tester with you on your quad at all times it is a cheep tool you should have at ALL times any way. as soon as you get a no start check for spark. if you have no spark check if fuel is getting to the injector. pretty simple. then let us know which you are ot getting so we can go further
I know this is going to be a pita when the bike starts and runs perfect in the shop, means I'm gonna be balls deep far from home waiting for no start condition to reappear to diagnose. I will certainly be taking spark tester with me but can anybody suggest any suspect parts to replace or carry as spare? For it to re-start and run perfect after nothing but 1/2 hour down time makes me think something either got too hot and cooled or got wet and dried? Relays...fuel pump...is that what you're thinkin?
tuff to say Id hATE TO THROW PArts at it. I saw a few threads where people said they had rubbed through wires at the steering stem. also. above I said "if you are getting no spark'' I meant to say if you have spark check fuel to the injector. you didn't have any engine codes rite? just check if you do anyway to be sure.
The first place I would look is at the wires coming off your stator and look at the first plug where it goes in your harness. The three heavy gauge wires will most likely look overheated. That needs to be repaired if it's bad. High resistance at that location results in power issues. Battery goes low, bike shuts off, things cool down and start working again.
The next thing I would look at is the fuel pump sock and look for water in your tank as well.
freak11970 do these have a charge light? I have the same quad and I actuall repaired the wires you mentioned on Tuesday. Atleast 1 of thos wires were completely not connected. but no charge light. so I unplugged the stator and still no charge light. I would think or sure there would be 1 but I don't think so now
No charge light. The bike will run good, then die, then run good again. The permanent fix is to bypass the plug and solder/heat shrink the wires. Charging voltage will be low then high and all over the place. Once it's bypassed, no more efi/volt issues
The AC voltage between any two legs off that stator will be around 30-33 vac for this (zukicat) bike.
goot to know. I just found a thread that says a volt light comes on when it hits 10.5 but at that point its just about too late.im getting a volt meter lol.
Not always.. the "volt " flashing can come on with a bad regulator and still register over 12 volts on a tester..
when my regulator went south on me it would flash volt after 10 minutes of riding, backfire on occasion, stall, miss, then run good for awhile. It took me about a year to finally get it fixed, after 3 spark plugs and switching batteries.
Or it could be that i was testing it in the wrong place??
I checked it at the pod outlet for voltage and it was probably reading off the battery??? hmm now I got myself thinking.....
I guess i was doing it right;
The regulator/rectifier is located under the rear rack
and rear fenders.
TESTING
1. Start engine and warm up to normal operating
temperatures; then connect a multimeter to the
battery as follows.
2. Select the DC Voltage position; then connect the
red tester lead to the positive battery post and
the black tester lead to the negative battery post.
3. Start the engine and slowly increase RPM. The
voltage should increase with the engine RPM to
a maximum of 15.5 DC volts.
�� NOTE: If voltage rises above 15.5 DC volts, the
regulator is faulty or a battery connection is loose
or corroded. Clean and tighten battery connections
or replace the regulator/rectifier. If voltage
does not rise, check Voltage (Charging Coil - No
Load) in this section. If charging coil voltage is
normal, replace the regulator/rectifier
I guess i was doing it right;
The regulator/rectifier is located under the rear rack
and rear fenders.
TESTING
1. Start engine and warm up to normal operating
temperatures; then connect a multimeter to the
battery as follows.
2. Select the DC Voltage position; then connect the
red tester lead to the positive battery post and
the black tester lead to the negative battery post.
3. Start the engine and slowly increase RPM. The
voltage should increase with the engine RPM to
a maximum of 15.5 DC volts.
�� NOTE: If voltage rises above 15.5 DC volts, the
regulator is faulty or a battery connection is loose
or corroded. Clean and tighten battery connections
or replace the regulator/rectifier. If voltage
does not rise, check Voltage (Charging Coil - No
Load) in this section. If charging coil voltage is
normal, replace the regulator/rectifier
That's a good check for the regulator. I was talking about the stator. On the 06/07 the bigger fail is the stator plug. Corrosion builds up there and wreaks electrical havoc.
Ok I finally had a chance to poke around a bit, wiring around steering colomb checks ok, battery shows 12.89 and 14.8 when running. Stator connector looks clean and intact but freak you say 3 heavy gauge wires should read 30-33? How do I conduct this test?
Disconnect the connector and test any two leads from the stator with your meter set on ac. Should read about 33volts ac. But you're charging at 14 + volts so you should be ok.
I would check the fuel pump and regulator. I bought an 07 700 with like 400 miles that had the exact same issues. The guy i got it from said it started off it would just do it when it got warmed up but would eventually run fine again. Eventually got to where it wouldn't run at all. Ended up being fuel pump related. The first thing I would do is check your o-rings on the regulator and end of your fuel pump. All the o-rings were bad on this one. If it ends up being your fuel pump then you can do the mustang fuel pump replacement. there is a write up somewhere on here. If its the regulator you'll have to buy another pump because Arctic Cat doesn't offer them individually.
i wonder if you can splice in a old style inline fuel pressure gauge before it gets to the injector. it should fit under there. i think autozone sells them.
I guess this thread seems a bit dated but tough summer, only got out a couple rides. Update is seems my little donut shaped rubber seal on spark plug cap was letting water in very easily and drain galley was clogged. I replaced seal and cleaned galley but last 2 rides I got into a bit of water and stalled out with no re-start until I popped off plug cap and sprayed ignition dry fluid into cap and flushed out around plug then fires right up. Does it make sense that a little water in there would kill it and how do I keep it out? Should that drain galley have a plug of some sort ?