Utility ATV repair and maintenance & Troubleshooting Place your Utility ATV Repair and Maintenance questions/thoughts here... *not performance*

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Old 10-10-2011, 07:12 PM   #11
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Okay, so I have used the correct oil. SAE 10W-40 just like the manual states. But I did buy this ATV used this past March so who knows what the previous owner used.

The Oil/Filter change didn't make a difference. Took off the cover and my CVT DOES NOT work like the one in this video. It doesn't spin as fast but it isn't locked up. You can push it by hand and is free spinning. When you give it gas, it tries to spin, but not fast or consistently.

What does that mean? Also, have a lot of heavy exhaust fumes... not sure if that indicates anything, but wanted to give the details.

Last edited by razaq1; 10-10-2011 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:51 PM   #12
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Last edited by doorfx; 10-10-2011 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:33 PM   #13
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Gents, I have the same problem. Anyone know the solution?
I trying all the above mention stuff and I'll put an update in 15 min!!!
I tried what was in the video and it does the same thing as in the video.
Next I'm trying in gear.
My ATV will actually move but will not change gear. Max speed is 30 km/h (20-25 mph).
Any help would be appreciated
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Old 10-18-2012, 11:43 PM   #14
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Quick follow up, I tried it in gear, low and reverse and both pulley are turning.
Is there a way to force the clutch to change gear??
Oil used in the last oil change was kawasaki M4 for wet clutch. Don't know what was previously used.
Once again, any help would be appreciated.
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:11 PM   #15
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Max speed is 30 km/hr at 4000 rpm. I can get in L, H, N and R and I can move the ATV .
How can I check the belt tension/belt itself????
Any ideas on any other possibilities????
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:02 PM   #16
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Need to know what type of ATV this is.

If this is NOT a 650 V2 the front pulley should not turn while the engine is idling at 1200-1450 RPM or less. It it should turn and start closing together as you increase the RPM. The belt is under constant tension as shown on the video. there are no adjustments necessary and it should behave like it is shown on the video. If the idle speed it set too high the pulley can start spinning and getting into and out of gear will be a problem. To correct this, set you idle speed down where it should be Approximately 1250-1350 RPM

If it is a 650 V2 then the front pull spins any the time the engine is running and the belt slips in the pulley, belt tension is adjusted by adding or removing shims. Somewhere in the pinned section there is a V2 thread that details the procedure
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:47 PM   #17
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HELP!!!

I am having a similar issue;

On the weekend I was getting noises in mid range between 30 to 60 KM/H when I went to slow down (normally you get some engine breaking when you let off the throttle) there was a loud noise like a brick being thrown against the wall. I came to a full stop and could not move forward anymore. At first it was making a grinding when I used the throttle (similar noise to if you put it in gear to quickly when the auto choke is still idling the engine too high.)

When I went to H or L or R it wouldn't move. I had to get towed out and even in neutral it had some resistance on the wheels. After being towed out it won't even make the grinding noise in gear.

I have taken the belt cover off and in neutral the belt spins and the clutches/pressure plate move as normal. When i go into gear nothing changes works the same as it does in neutral.

I am assuming it has something to do with the rods or the side where the gear shifter goes into the engine?

I have looked a lot online and everything just talks about the belt and clutches I found a video that went as far as getting to the wet clutch but haven't seen anything on the other side of the engine/transmission...

Anyone have any ideas here?
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Old 12-07-2012, 05:57 AM   #18
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Rob, it sounds like the ATV shift linkage was off, hence the grinding. The bang was probably something breaking, or getting sheared off. The broken part has nowhere to go and is binding against other parts inside and causing the resistance on your wheels. I wouldn't start it anymore. Somebody with more experience will answer this, in the meantime maybe start taking the left side apart (take lots of pictures as you go) and have a clean work area.
My $.02, probably didn't tell you anything, that you didn't already know.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:44 AM   #19
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Rob, sounds like your bevel gear may have went out if the sound was in the motor.
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:04 PM   #20
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I'd really like to watch a video of whats going on in there before I start taking it apart. I haven't been able to find anything its always about the clutches and wet clutch nothing on the other side of the motor/transmission...?
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