Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Georgetown, ON Canada
Thanked 216 Times in 212 Posts
Sled: 95 ZRT 800 AGLT, 92 Jag 440, 14 XF9000
10-11 Mileage: 800
09-10 Mileage: 679
08-09 Mileage: 1000
07-08 Mileage: 1600
06-07 Mileage: 728
That video, as it turns out, was not the stator failing. It's very similar symptom however. The situation in the video popped up intermittently and it turned out to be a poorly bypassed throttle safety switch. The wires were all tucked underneath the console and wrapped with electrical tape. Not really the most secure. You'll notice the engine actually dies off when applying the throttle.
During my trouble shooting I purchased a rewound stator from a Quebec company. It worked beautifully the first time I installed it. A week later it started acting up again. It was a very similar symptom, however the idle was quite a bit rougher and when the throttle was pinned the rpm's did not reach engagement, it just stayed about the same. This sounds quite a bit like the problem you're having.
The rewound stator has a shellac coating to insulate the wires from the ground plate and to secure them and prevent them from breaking. After examining closely, I could see (and measure with ohm meter) where the coating was thin and took very little time for one wire to wear through to the ground plate.
Fast forward another year, and running the 2nd stator. 107 miles away from launch point and sled dies. This time a wire broke off one of the coils. The shellac coating broke. A few days past the one year warranty and they took it back, but sent be back both the old one and a new one. It looks like they've improved their processes to make them more reliable, and hoping my feedback has helped somewhat, and no I'm not giving the 3rd stator a chance since my original one was never faulty.
The best way to isolate your handle bar switches from your engine electrical is to bypass all your switches. I'm not sure if the older sleds are the same, but it's worth taking a look. Down near the stator side of the engine, see if you can find a 4 prong plug. It might have 2 yellow wires and 2 other coloured wires (possible purple and black) On the stator side of this connector, place a jumper between the 2 NON yellow wires. Yellow is lighting coil and you don't want to short it out.
This jumper bypasses the key, kill, tether (if installed) and throttle safety switches. So if the engine runs bad afterwards, you know you're looking at something to do with engine electrical, possibly coil, wires, plug caps, CDI, and unfortunately most likely the stator.