Arctic Chat

dnspream · 02-13-2010, 05:52 PM

[attachment=147894:101_0302.JPG]I have a 2007 650H1 XT with 127 miles that i just bought, and i am still trying to work out all the bugs in it.
One problem is that it will start fine, run for a bit, and then dies, almost like the choke is coming off to early.. I uped the idle a bit which worked, but after that i was unable to put it into gear due to the clutch spinning to fast, so i turned the idle back down..My question is, does anybody know if there is a mod or even if you can put a manuel choke on this thing????

Another problem that i am having is the shifter seems to be messed up, Seem pretty hard to get into gear most of the time,even at a low idle, then others slips right in.. Any ideas
Any help would be greatly appreciated....

jcsandsrt · 02-13-2010, 08:20 PM

Try running some carb cleaner through it. Being an 07 with 127 miles, it has set quite a bit.

As for the shifting, try putting it all the way down inlow, and then pull it up into high. This seems to help get into high, especially when the bike is cold.

triplej · 02-13-2010, 09:48 PM

Mine is the same way, I start mine, stalls, shut key off to reset choke, usually starts and stays running second time but can be 3 times.

As far as the shifting get it good and warmed up then set your idle, mine is set at 1400 rpms by the cats tach.

When it comes to shifting from gear to gear that if I give the throttle a short snort and shift just as the idle comes back down it shift really well.

Yes you can get a different carb that has a manual choke if you want to spend the bucks on one, usually over $400.00.

dnspream · 02-13-2010, 10:26 PM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (jcsandsrt @ Feb 13 2010, 08:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Quote:

Try running some carb cleaner through it. Being an 07 with 127 miles, it has set quite a bit.

As for the shifting, try putting it all the way down inlow, and then pull it up into high. This seems to help get into high, especially when the bike is cold.[/b]

$400.00 OUCH!!As far as the carb cleaner , are you talking about the add to the fuel stuff or would it be better to pull the carb and do it that way????

I tried puting it into low the other day and was unable to get it back out until i shut off the motor. Just seemed like i had to put a lot of force on the handle to the point of bending something, I didnt want to do that so i turned it off..

PS thanks for the reply guy's I Really appreciate it...

triplej · 02-14-2010, 06:14 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>

Quote:

I tried puting it into low the other day and was unable to get it back out until i shut off the motor. Just seemed like i had to put a lot of force on the handle to the point of bending something, I didnt want to do that so i turned it off..[/b]

That is where the snort of the engine works well. Just put minimal pressure on the shifter give it a snort and it will slide right out of gear. Takes some practice but once you get it down you will find you do it quite often unless you are on flat trails. When it's on any slope when stopped I find that I need to do this.

jcsandsrt · 02-14-2010, 08:13 AM

For the carb clleaner, I put arctic cat carb cleaner (in fuel) in mine when I change the oil.

dnspream · 02-17-2010, 09:06 PM

Thanks for all the help guys, I really Appreciate it..
Thanks again

Wyo_H1_Cat · 02-19-2010, 06:10 PM

Probably too lean in the colder temperatures. I'm quite sure it would help to open the PMS screw another 1/4 turn or so. When it warms up and gets hot, you can close the PMS down to where it was for the hotter temperatures. Cold air needs more fuel. On my 650 H1 engine I seasonally adjust the PMS screw when the temperature requires also close it down some when spending a lot of time at high altitudes also and open it back up when I return to the lower altitudes.

Stock jetting is quite often lean and good for sea level at 70 degrees F. Every 15 degrees colder than that requires 2% more fuel approximately. If one want optimal performance at cold temperatures a complete rejet of, PMS, Pilot, Needle and Main may be required. But most of the time a small adjustment on the PMS will get you by.