heres what I wa taught at the Arctic Cat Service Update seminar. Im not sure how I can upload the pics so I'll be as descriptive as possible
to begin you will need the side covers and the Pod removed. Some steps I've added as well to help
1) Remove engine drain cover(oval shaped piece under engine) with a T20 torx bit
2) Remove drain plug from engine and allow to drain
3) Loosen oil bleed screw located on top of engine case to allow oil to fully drain out.
4) Remove exhaust resonator and the screw holding the belly pan at the footwell. it will be a torx. Using a 14mm wrench loosen but dont remove the drain plug for the oil tank
5)to avoid a mess cut the front side out of an empty 1qt oil container to use as a funnel. Place funnel under tank and remove plug to drain oil out through the resonator hole into a pan.
6)to remove the oil filter, first remove the bottom charge tube from the intercooler to gain fair access to filter. then using a long extension with a swivel and a filter wrench remove the filter. install new filter and re-install charge tube.
7) Install both drain plugs and torque to 16ft/lbs and re-install drain cover under engine plug.
8) Tighten oil pump bleed screw and pour 3quarts into oil tank. Loosen oil bleed screw to purge air from oil pump hose. When air can no longer be heard. tighten bleed screw to 96in/lbs.
9)with key on check to see if oil pressure light illuminates. then run engine to make sure oil pressure light goes out. run engine for one minute and fill oil tank to center of sight glass.
There it is. I hope it helps
2011 Arctic Cat CFR 800, Boondocker Control box, 1.5" Roetin Hornets, D&D Clutch kit, Set up for Stock Class drag racing.
1989 Ski-Doo Formula MX
1987 Yamaha Banshee, D&D Cool head, Toomey T5s, Drag porting in "Stock" cylinders.
"If its fast and drinks gas, Like it!!"