Tunnel Protectors Sno Pro 800 RR

[Shorecrest]

The tp's i got for my RR are different than last years. They may fit, but they are different

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[Krom]

Application p/n
'13 F 800, F 1100, F 1100 Turbo 6639-075
'12 F 800, F 1100, F 1100 Turbo 6639-178
'13 XF 800, XF 1100, XF 1100 Turbo 6639-118
'12 XF 800, XF 1100, XF 1100 Turbo 6639-179
'12-’13 M 800 HCR, M 1100 Turbo HCR 6639-207
'09-'11 CF, CFR 4639-968
'08-'13 F570, T570; '09-'13 BC 570 4639-771
'09-'13 BC Z1 XT 5639-143
'06-'08 CF 4639-338

[tcat100]

I just installed the 13 protectors in my 1100 Turbo RR. I didn't drop the suspension or take off the flap. Instead I just bent it up out of the way when I raised the rear of the sled. The point about the widening of the T because of the bend is a big one. I ended up having to bend mine back; I then used a wooden wedge wedged between the track above the top idlers and the protector to keep it square with the kinked part of the heat exchanger. Worked great. The wedge was a 4x4 cut diagonally so that the diagonal edge is about 8" long. Spent over an hour on it (unsuccessfully) until I tried this wedge, then it went right on. They probably want you to remove the suspension so you can hold it from poping out but that would take four hands and I only have two. The wedge worked great.

Thanks Yamadogger I also ground down the ramps with the tool you recommeded...not fun but it didn't take that much longer (maybe 1 hr for 135 studs). One thing it did do was make pushing the stud through the track easier so I picked up some skin and sore knuckles there. My stud heads lay perfectly flat now. For waht it's worth, my dealer said that a studded quiet track = a loud and vibrating track because those stud heads are raised so much. They still do it b/c they wont do the grinding (takes too long) so they just warn the customer about the noise and vibration. But no reliability issues according to the dealer.

 Quote: Originally Posted by Yamadogger

My protectors came in on Friday so I put them on yesterday and figured I'd pass along a few hints to those who have not yet installed theirs. The instructions don't mention the need to remove your snow flap and I suspect you could probably do it with the flap on but do yourself a favor and take your flap off. I had mine off already to give some more room for studding and it was pretty easy to get the strips in with it off. I suspect with it on you'd fight with it a lot more. They recommend dropping the back of the suspension and I didn't think I'd need to but ended up deciding it was way easier with it dropped. I like this skid - my Apex was a bear to get the skid out of but this thing drops with the 2 rear bolts and the front just pulls off the shaft and the whole thing comes out easily - pretty sweet! One thing to watch for - when you pound the protectors into the slot in your exchangers, make sure to get help so you can push upward on the protectors to keep them in the slot. There is a fairly sharp curve in the tunnel and once you get the strips in about 16" there is a fair amount of pressure wanting to pull the strips out of the slot and if you're not careful the T at the top of the strip will start to ride out of the slot. Keeping upward pressure right at the start of the slot in the main exchanger will keep the strip moving freelywithout wanting to ride out of the slot. Also, some WD-40 helps quite a bit. If you do get off track and have to pull them out (like I did with my first one) just hook a ratchet strap to the leading end (front) and pull it backward. If I hadn't got my first one messed up by the T starting to pop out of the slot, it would have gone pretty quick - probaby an hour for the whole job. I did have to grind the inside end of one rivet off as it stuck down too far and was interfering with the protector but overall pretty easy and they look fairly substantial. You do need to drill out 2 of the exchanger rivets per the instructions and they give you a couple Torx head screws that screw down through the tunnel and into the protectors to hold the trailing edge up. They seem to hold the trailing edge pretty solid. I don't know how this compares to the protectors they had last year but here are a few pics of mine installed.