If your EFI codes are 3 or 4 digit codes check this list.
EFI MALFUNCTION CODES -950 H2 "Please Make this A Sticky"
P0630-Vin Not Programmed or Incompatible.
I don't really understand what this code would mean or if it complies with your issue/machine. Much of what is inside that black box is a mystery too all.
Looking at the wiring diagram on my Tcat the ECU and the Pod communicate back and forth it appears. not sure if it is the same on yours or not. Maybe there is a loose or corroded connection between the two. Have you either replaced the pod or ECU?
Error codes from the 2009 service manual
• 00 = No Fault Detected (active code only)
• 12 = CKP (Crankshaft Position) Sensor*
• 13 = APS (Air Pressure Sensor) - H1
• 13 = MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor - H2
• 14 = TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
• 15 = ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor
• 16 = Speed Sensor
• 21 = IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) Sensor
• 23 = Tilt Sensor*
• 24 = Ignition Coil #1*
• 26 = Ignition Coil #2* - H2
• 32 = Fuel Injector #1*
• 34 = Fuel Injector #2* - H2
• 40 = ISC (Idle Speed Control) Valve
• 41 = Fuel Pump Relay*
• 60 = Cooling Fan Relay
• 95 = Sensor Power
• 96 = Incorrect ECU*
• 97 = ECU Memory Power (constant battery power)
About battery's and state of charge with EFI.
EFI needs a good battery and a fully charged battery. Below 10.5 volts sensed by the ECU will cause a VOLT error to show up on the display and may cause the EFI error to appear as well. Before getting overly concerned about EFI error codes make sure your battery is fully charged, 20 hours at a 2 amp rate will do it. A lot of EFI problems are cured with a new fresh battery.
Batteries have two important ratings and several other less important ratings such as Reserve capacity, Cycle rating, and others. These ratings also assume a fully charged battery in a New condition. All Batteries weaken with age and use. They loose both the ability to deliver high amperage and they loose storage capacity. From listening to the sound of you cranking the engine over and hearing it slow, your battery is either not fully recharged, been abused or is old and worn out. Recharge it and have it load tested, chances are, it needs replaced.
1. CCA or Cold Cranking Amperage, what this is is the maximum amount of amperage the battery can deliver for 30 seconds at zero (0) degrees F without dropping below a specified cutoff voltage. The temperature is mostly just a guide line to use for winter use and CCA should be higher at room temperatures up to some maximum temperature where it will fall off also. It takes a lot of amperage or power to crank an engine over, I've never measured on my cats it but assume it is at least 100 Amps, maybe as high as 200 amps of initial load. If the battery has weak CCA, or not fully charged it may may turn the engine over slowly or not at all. A load test can per performed to determine the health of a battery at most automotive part venders.
2. Amp/Hour rating or Capacity. The amp-hour rating for a given battery is the amount of Amps that can be consumed over a period of time until the battery is considered discharged. If you have a 20 amp hour battery you could place a 20 amp continuous load upon it and in 1 hour it would be fully discharged. If your starter is using 200 amps (example only) when you crank the engine over you would fully discharge the battery is 6 minutes. Only 12 minutes if the starter is using 100 amps. Similar usage time for winches. Every time a battery is discharged it looses some of its capacity and CCA rating. Every battery as a set number +/- of discharge/recharge cycles exceed that number and the battery has reached it end of it's life. Some batteries are built to last a high number of cycles, such as the Odyssey. The Odyssey also survives abuse very well.
The inverse is also true, a 20 amp hour battery will require 1 hour to recharge at a 20 amp rate, 10 hours at a 2 amp rate or 20 hours at a 1 amp rate. Do not try to recharge one of these small batteries at 20 amps, it will probably fry it and ruin it. Although some brands can handle higher charge rates. The maximum charge rate is usually 10-15% of its capacity or 2 to 3 amps maximum and often a label is found on the battery showing maximum charge rate for that battery. Exceeding maximum charge rate can destroy a battery or at minimum harm it.
A battery will still show a voltage when its in a state of discharge or drained and may even increase to almost 11-12 volts after a period of rest and that is known be a third rating called reserve capacity or recovery. For the most part though the battery is not going to do much, It is drained of power and does not have the ability to do work even though it has a voltage its electron tank is empty. The amp/hour rating of these small batteries used in Arctic Aats range from about a low of 15 A/H to maybe as high as 25 A/H. In my opinion higher is better just like a big fuel tank is better than a small fuel tank for going the distance. CCA ratings probably range from a low of around 150 to maybe 600-800. with the norm being 200-400 CCA The PC-680 has a 680 CCA rating. At first that sounds great but you'll never need it, if your starter draws a maximum of 175 amps the maximum that will be drawn from the battery is 175 amps. A Battery will not deliver more amperage then what is asked from it. Even a fully charged PC-680 that has a 680 CCA rating will only deliver what is asked from it, 175 in this example. The rest of the available CCA overkill and never used. Those who deep cycle (discharge) their batteries often via excessive winch use would probably be better off with the PC-680 because the 680 can withstand deep discharge cycles much better then most other batteries.
Abuse a battery and a new battery may only last a few months. Abuse can include Deep discharge, Extended winch use, Storing while discharged, Over charging or Jump starting at high amperage/voltage. Understand the limitations of these batteries and it will last for years, If you typically abuse batteries purchase a PC680. If you want to maximize capacity get the Motobatt with 25 amp/hour capacity. both the 680 and the 25 A/H Motobatt are big in size. Measure to make sure they fit. I've read here where the TRV models have smaller battery boxes then the non TRV models. I don't know this for sure myself. Either the 680 or the big MB will fit my H1 or H2 with no issues.
Never store a battery or let it sit for long periods if not fully recharged. Fully charged at rest key off voltage is 12.1 to 12.5 volts.
All batteries will loose charge when stored, even with nothing connected to them. Use a battery maintainer when in storage.
The Clock in the display pod does drain your battery over time. Use a battery maintainer when in storage
If the length of the ride is short, Make sure the battery is fully recharged after each use with a charger or maintainer.
Never exceed the maximum charge rate for the battery when charging. May cause the battery to overheat and short out a cell internally and/or builds sulfates on the plates reducing capacity.
Keep the top of the battery Clean, Dirt, swamp mud and moisture is a conductor and will discharge the battery and cause power robbing corrosion.
Never jump start from a running automobile. If the ATV battery is fully drained I wouldn't even jump start from a non running automobile since that big car battery may be fully charged and capable of hitting the small battery with a excessive damaging amperage. A large auto battery may be rated at over 1000 CCA. when connected to a dead or deeply discharged ATV battery something could FRY. When running, an auto alternator may dump a huge amount of amperage(100-200 amps) into the small atv battery, overheat it, and warp the plates, at least it could or will shorten the batteries life significantly and may fry the voltage regulator and or burn stator wiring and cause other strange electrical problems.
Some science of why jump starting can harm your battery. Over simplified, and there are other factors not included here. Basic Ohm's law is still applicable for an understand of why jump starting is bad.
Batteries have an internal resistance. You cannot measure it directly with an ohm meter. Assume it's there and the amount of resistance is probably well under 1 ohm. For this example assume .1 ohm or 1/10 of 1 ohm of resistance. Assume your ATV battery is deeply discharged and has a at rest voltage of 7 volts across the terminals. A running automotive alternator has a voltage of around 14.5 volts and capable of delivering as high as 200 amps at this voltage. What is the differential voltage between the non running near dead ATV battery (7 Volts) and the running automobile? (14.5 volts)
ANSWER: 7.5 volts, is the differential voltage between the ATV battery and the running automobile.
Using ohms law, Current equals Voltage divided by Resistance. Plugging in the above numbers we have. 7.5 volts differential, divided by .1 oms battery resistance, equals 75 Amps of current being dumped into your ATV battery and the ATV's electrical system. Something could FRY and often does fry. If the Automobile is Not running its a little better, however still excessive in this example. With the car engine off it may have a voltage of 12.5 volts and the battery is able to deliver a high amperage considering the size and CCA rating of the car battery. In this case if the ATV battery was at 7 volts the differential is now at 5.5 volts or 5.5 / .1 = 55 amps. Still dangerously high with the atv battery being at 7 volts initially although better then 75 amps. The amount of amperage dumped into the ATV would be much worse of the ATV battery voltage was lower and a whole lot better of the ATV amperage was higher. 10-10.5 Volts across the ATV battery is probably low enough that the ATV will not crank over very well, if at all and may just have solenoid chatter. Jump starting from a non running automobile you'd have a voltage differential of 2.0 to 2.5 volts resulting in approximately 20-25 amps and 40-45 amps when the automobile was running. Still sounds high. With the automobile engine off it probably not fry things for the short duration. With the engine on, In my opinion you are taking chances of cooking something. I'm thinking those cases where we've read about voltage regulators being fried is when the ATV battery was at a very low voltage. Maybe resulting from leaving the key on overnight, lights on or the hand warmers on and the ATV battery voltage is near ZERO. 14.5 Volts in to a ATV battery sitting at 0 to 1 volt is 135-145 amps. SOMETHING is GOING to FRY or MELT.