NavbitArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum » ATV's » Pinned Topics » CV Boot replacement with pics

Pinned Topics This section contains important ATV FAQs, Recalls, How-Tos, Installation Guides and more.

Reply
Old 10-17-2010, 08:31 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
captnkeno's Avatar
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Twin Cities
Thanks: 2
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
10-11 Mileage:
09-10 Mileage: 3
08-09 Mileage: 13
07-08 Mileage: 127
ATV: 2012 Arctic Cat 700 LTD
2010 Mileage: 282
2009 Mileage: 109
2008 Mileage: 27
2007 Mileage: 13
Awesome post CK!! Thanks
__________________
MODS SO FAR
Dyna-Tek ignition
Uni-Filter
Sanny's Bushings
HID'S
Warn Winch
Warn Plow
Rear sway bar
Kimpex trunk w/seat
Humminbird GPS
Cat Hand Warmers
A/C Gun Scabbard
NEXT...
captnkeno is offline   Reply With Quote
Remove Ads
Old 12-28-2010, 12:33 PM   #22
Sponsors
 
ricktherocket's Avatar
 
Sponsors
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Monroe, Indiana 46772
Thanks: 64
Thanked 350 Times in 325 Posts
Sled: Black Plastic w/ Cat Green Runners
ATV: 2003 AC 400 Auto
I paid $9.49 + tax at O'Reillys

O'Reillys Part# 5860
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/5860.oap?keyword=5860





What most guys don't know is that the Geo CV that this kit is intended for is much bigger in dia. and this boot has to be stretched on to it as you can tell by the clamps that came with the kit.

I go to Napa and buy ones to fit, they cost about $1.25 ea.
part# 730-7375.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=730-7375&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=730-7375&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0
__________________






Please look at the link below for my products and pricing.
http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/rtr-custom-fabrication/



Need a Service Manual? You can download a free one here:
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/




"ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ"
We don't stop playing because we get old. We get old because we stop playing.

Last edited by ricktherocket; 10-12-2011 at 03:15 PM.
ricktherocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2011, 06:54 AM   #23
Junior Member
 
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: canada
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thumbs up Awsome thank you for posting

 Quote: Originally Posted by CatKraz View Post
I'm sure this is posted somewhere, and I'm probably waisting my time, but here it goes anyways. The main reason for posting this, is due to all the questions pertaining to it. Its very simple with the right tools, and a little instruction. Upon checking out my sons 300 and doing some regular maintenance, I noticed he busted a boot last weekend while riding. I did this last night and from start to finish, even with taken pics, it took me right at 30 mins. I've done several, so the time it takes you may or may not take longer.

Tools I use:
Jack
Socket set
Ratchet, banding tool (You can get this from any CV store for about 25 bucks)
2 long bands (Get these at any CV store about .75 each
2 short bands (Same as above)
2 cv boots (Same as above, usually about 4 bucks)
Dremel with cut off wheel,band cutter, or side cutters. Either will do.
Hammer
Grease
Snap ring pliers


Assuming your bike is jacked up, and wheel remeoved, this is what I do.
1)Remove cotter pin, and large axle keep nut or hub nut. Its sometimes called the castle or crown nut also.
(Be sure your diff oil is drained)

2) Remove upper upper shock mount bolt

3) Remove upper A arm bolts (See pic bellow)


4) Remove lower A arm bolts ( all the above may vary, but still the same concept. You may have to remove boot guards or other bolts that are in the way)


5) Grab the axle with your strong hand..LOL and push inward toward the diff. The inside cage of the joint will slide inward. This will allow you some room for levereage


6) Yank on the axle arm (this may take several tries, push the axle inward toward the diff again and repeat) The axle will pop out of the diff.


7) With the axle out of the diff, use a rubber mallet,wood block, or thread the castle nut back on to the end of the axle and tap it until the axle is free of the hub. DONT LOOSE THE RUBBER BUSHING ON THE HUB


8)Now with the axle in your hand, cut all the bands off. You can purchase a band cutter at any auto parts store,use a good pair of side cutter, or use a dremel with a cut off wheel, which is what I use.


ATTENTION***** When cutting the band off of the torn boot, you can go crazy and cut it howeer you like! BUT!!! on the boot that is still good, just cut the band where, the tab is, and only cut the tab. Dont go all the way through the entire band, as it will cut into the boot when using a dremel. If you're using a band cutter,or side cutters, just cut the whole band. You may have to use a flat head screw driver to pry up the band first. be careful not to puncture the good boot.

9) With bands cut, slide the inboard boot (boot closest to diff) down the axle toward the outboard boot. ( You may have to use a small flat head screw driver to free it from its position)


10) There is a large C clip inside the inboard joint,just beneath the lips of the joint. This is what keeps the joint from sliding off. You will see notches cut out of the lip. This is to gain acces to the C clip. Use a very small flat head screw driver, and pick out one of those grooves, to try and pry the screw driver in between the lip of the joint and the C clip. I always do this until I find the end of the C clip. The end is much easier to pry, as it has the least amount of tension on it. The clip comes out pretty easy, just dont loose it. Also you will need to take a pretty sharp angle on the clip to get it out. Be sure and push the axle in toward the cup. (The race will slide in giving you room to work, just like when pulling the axle from the actual diff in step 5)



11) With Clip removed the joint will now slide off.


12) Now you see the cage, that has the balls on it. Clean as much of the grease as possible, away from the top part of the cage.

13) You will see a snap ring. This part can be a little tricky but not bad. It also gets a little messy here for me.


What I do is take my snap ring pliers,and spread the snap ring. With my other hand, I grap the cage, and lift up, using the weight of the axle to make it slide out of the cage. The snap ring pliers can be a PITA, and will keep coming out, which is why I do it this way. Works like a charm.

14) Remove the cage with race


15) Remove the inboard boot

16) Remove the Outboard boot


17) Clean neccisary parts

18) Install new outboard boot


19) Install new inboard boot.


20) Regrease both joints and put a decent amount inside the boots.

21) Position the new boots in the right place, and clean outter part if neccesary.

22) Place your bands on new boots, and tighten the up.




23) Now reverse your steps to install the axle and suspension parts. Dont forget to fill your diff up.

Hope this helps!
Awsome..thank you for posting...great help for a newbie like me..
smartfroggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2011, 08:48 AM   #24
Junior Member
 
zippy6's Avatar
 
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: PA
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ATV: 2 x 2008 500's
2010 Mileage: 200
2009 Mileage: 400
This was an excellent post with great pictures. Thanks for taking the time to post such a great tutorial!
zippy6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2011, 10:13 PM   #25
Team ArcticChat
 
cr724's Avatar
Team ArcticChat  
Team ArcticChat
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Texas
Thanks: 18
Thanked 53 Times in 45 Posts
ATV: '04 400 4x4 FIS Manual
2010 Mileage: 50 :(
2009 Mileage: 50 :(
2008 Mileage: 600
2007 Mileage: 800
2006 Mileage: 150
Some helpful links---

CV boots-- 2 for $19.95 @ http://www.atvcvboots.com/servlet/th...ots/Categories


Here is a link for extra Cv band clamps--- BAND-IT STYLE BOOT CLAMPS THINNER SIZE

$4 for two bands -- one 11 and one 19 inch long. These are the thinner clamps. They also have 3/8 inch wide bands also.
__________________
STOLEN
'04 400 manual Marsh green
Ram-air panels | Circuit breakers | Manual Fan switch | Custom brushguard | Green Rotopax gas cans | Modified Contico tool box | Tamarack front & rear bags | 2500 Warn winch | Winch Saver | 25" Maxxis Bighorns | Custom 2-up handlebars & footpegs | Sanny shock bushings | Steer Lite bushings | Notoil Air Filter | Exhaust wrap | Carb Slide Mod | RTR Flex Bracket | '05 650V2 Locking Diff | STI Slasher axle (Left Front) | Custom Splice OD Green Winch Rope | Xtreme LED front 12w spotlights | Reverse light- 15w LED light bar | Green LED Knight Rider Strip

on the way...

Reverse cam mod ---cam needs machining
Dual brake levers & foot brake delete
LED running Lights
RGB LED whip


You don't know shift!!!

Last edited by cr724; 07-19-2011 at 11:26 PM.
cr724 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2011, 10:59 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How are the EPI Boots? Would I want standard or Extreme Cold? And you guys are saying I dont need the tool?

Will I lose gear oil by doing this?
__________________
2006 ARCTIC CAT 650 H1 LE.

2002 GSX-R 750.

2002 HONDA ACCORD.

1986 Z28 COMPLETE REBUILD GROUND UP ROAD RACER.
JOE G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2012, 01:05 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Columbus, OH
Thanks: 27
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
ATV: '09 AC 700H1 efi
 Quote: Originally Posted by CatKraz View Post
I'm sure this is posted somewhere, and I'm probably waisting my time, but here it goes anyways. The main reason for posting this, is due to all the questions pertaining to it. Its very simple with the right tools, and a little instruction. Upon checking out my sons 300 and doing some regular maintenance, I noticed he busted a boot last weekend while riding. I did this last night and from start to finish, even with taken pics, it took me right at 30 mins. I've done several, so the time it takes you may or may not take longer.

Tools I use:
Jack
Socket set
Ratchet, banding tool (You can get this from any CV store for about 25 bucks)
2 long bands (Get these at any CV store about .75 each
2 short bands (Same as above)
2 cv boots (Same as above, usually about 4 bucks)
Dremel with cut off wheel,band cutter, or side cutters. Either will do.
Hammer
Grease
Snap ring pliers


Assuming your bike is jacked up, and wheel remeoved, this is what I do.
1)Remove cotter pin, and large axle keep nut or hub nut. Its sometimes called the castle or crown nut also.
(Be sure your diff oil is drained)

2) Remove upper upper shock mount bolt

3) Remove upper A arm bolts (See pic bellow)


4) Remove lower A arm bolts ( all the above may vary, but still the same concept. You may have to remove boot guards or other bolts that are in the way)


5) Grab the axle with your strong hand..LOL and push inward toward the diff. The inside cage of the joint will slide inward. This will allow you some room for levereage


6) Yank on the axle arm (this may take several tries, push the axle inward toward the diff again and repeat) The axle will pop out of the diff.


7) With the axle out of the diff, use a rubber mallet,wood block, or thread the castle nut back on to the end of the axle and tap it until the axle is free of the hub. DONT LOOSE THE RUBBER BUSHING ON THE HUB


8)Now with the axle in your hand, cut all the bands off. You can purchase a band cutter at any auto parts store,use a good pair of side cutter, or use a dremel with a cut off wheel, which is what I use.


ATTENTION***** When cutting the band off of the torn boot, you can go crazy and cut it howeer you like! BUT!!! on the boot that is still good, just cut the band where, the tab is, and only cut the tab. Dont go all the way through the entire band, as it will cut into the boot when using a dremel. If you're using a band cutter,or side cutters, just cut the whole band. You may have to use a flat head screw driver to pry up the band first. be careful not to puncture the good boot.

9) With bands cut, slide the inboard boot (boot closest to diff) down the axle toward the outboard boot. ( You may have to use a small flat head screw driver to free it from its position)


10) There is a large C clip inside the inboard joint,just beneath the lips of the joint. This is what keeps the joint from sliding off. You will see notches cut out of the lip. This is to gain acces to the C clip. Use a very small flat head screw driver, and pick out one of those grooves, to try and pry the screw driver in between the lip of the joint and the C clip. I always do this until I find the end of the C clip. The end is much easier to pry, as it has the least amount of tension on it. The clip comes out pretty easy, just dont loose it. Also you will need to take a pretty sharp angle on the clip to get it out. Be sure and push the axle in toward the cup. (The race will slide in giving you room to work, just like when pulling the axle from the actual diff in step 5)



11) With Clip removed the joint will now slide off.


12) Now you see the cage, that has the balls on it. Clean as much of the grease as possible, away from the top part of the cage.

13) You will see a snap ring. This part can be a little tricky but not bad. It also gets a little messy here for me.


What I do is take my snap ring pliers,and spread the snap ring. With my other hand, I grap the cage, and lift up, using the weight of the axle to make it slide out of the cage. The snap ring pliers can be a PITA, and will keep coming out, which is why I do it this way. Works like a charm.

14) Remove the cage with race


15) Remove the inboard boot

16) Remove the Outboard boot


17) Clean neccisary parts

18) Install new outboard boot


19) Install new inboard boot.


20) Regrease both joints and put a decent amount inside the boots.

21) Position the new boots in the right place, and clean outter part if neccesary.

22) Place your bands on new boots, and tighten the up.




23) Now reverse your steps to install the axle and suspension parts. Dont forget to fill your diff up.

Hope this helps!

Do you have to take the axle out to change JUST the outter boot?
ParaRider09 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2012, 07:44 AM   #28
Junior Member
 
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: se michigan
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I have a 04 400 FIS and have noticed that the clearance between the outer boot clamp and the spindle lower mount on the front is next to nonexistent. None of the clamps I used would clear without hitting the clamp crimp. I removed a bit of material from the spindle where the clamps rubbed with a disc grinder. About 1/8" did the trick. The spindles are iron so they are still plenty strong. Just a heads up before you find out the hard way.
crankshop1000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2012, 08:36 AM   #29
Sponsors
 
ricktherocket's Avatar
 
Sponsors
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Monroe, Indiana 46772
Thanks: 64
Thanked 350 Times in 325 Posts
Sled: Black Plastic w/ Cat Green Runners
ATV: 2003 AC 400 Auto
 Quote: Originally Posted by ParaRider09 View Post
Do you have to take the axle out to change JUST the outter boot?
No, you can change the outer boot with the axle still stuck in the diff, but once you have gone that far you might as well pull the axle out so you can work on it up on your workbench.


 Quote: Originally Posted by crankshop1000 View Post
I have a 04 400 FIS and have noticed that the clearance between the outer boot clamp and the spindle lower mount on the front is next to nonexistent. None of the clamps I used would clear without hitting the clamp crimp. I removed a bit of material from the spindle where the clamps rubbed with a disc grinder. About 1/8" did the trick. The spindles are iron so they are still plenty strong. Just a heads up before you find out the hard way.

What type of bands have you tried? As seen in the picture below there should be plenty of room, this is a picture of the front of my 03 and there is a good 1/8" of room between the knuckle and the clamping part of the band. The only time I've ever heard of having to clearance the knuckle is when guys have installed the new larger dia. MP axles.

__________________






Please look at the link below for my products and pricing.
http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/rtr-custom-fabrication/



Need a Service Manual? You can download a free one here:
http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Arctic-Cat-ATV-Repair-and-Service-Manuals/




"ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ"
We don't stop playing because we get old. We get old because we stop playing.
ricktherocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012, 07:20 AM   #30
Junior Member
 
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: se michigan
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
 Quote: Originally Posted by ricktherocket View Post
No, you can change the outer boot with the axle still stuck in the diff, but once you have gone that far you might as well pull the axle out so you can work on it up on your workbench.





What type of bands have you tried? As seen in the picture below there should be plenty of room, this is a picture of the front of my 03 and there is a good 1/8" of room between the knuckle and the clamping part of the band. The only time I've ever heard of having to clearance the knuckle is when guys have installed the new larger dia. MP axles.

That picture shows the same clearance as I have now AFTER removing some material.The casting was about 1/16" taller than the bolt flange before I took it down with the grinder.Maybe mine was a factory screw up because the original factory boot clamp rubbed on the spindle when new.
crankshop1000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   ArcticChat.com - Arctic Cat Forum » ATV's » Pinned Topics


Search tags for this page
2000 arctic cat 500 cv boot replacement
,
2001 arctic cat 300 4x4 cv boots
,
2002 arctic cat 4x4 cv boots
,
arctic cat atv cv boot replacement
,
arctic cat axle boot replacement
,

arctic cat cv boot replacement

,
arctic cat cv boot replacemnt
,
axle repair
,
how to change cv boot on 99 articat 500
,
replace boot cv 2003 250 arctic cat
Click on a term to search our sites for related topics.

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.