How to install clutch kit - - Arctic Cat Forum

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post #1 of 61 Old 11-10-2003, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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How to install clutch kit

First off.. You can only read this if you purchased one from me !!! so stop now..
secondly, it does go the same for just cleaning and normal assembly and disassembly. Any worn or broken pieces should be replaced now. Inspect them carefully.. I also recommend replacing whole clutch around 4-5000 miles, for better results. Rebuilding them are more costly.

1) Take off the belt
2) Remove the secondary(large clutch) , by taking out the 1/2" bolt and account for position and quantity of spacers, washers etc.... clutch slides off. if not you may need to spray penetrating oil in the hole and let set for a while..
3) Take off primary clutch - use a 1/2" 12 point socket and remove bolt. with pry bar in between two parts of the clutch NOT where the spider or buttons slide ..this will hold the clutch.
4) Using the clutch puller, and I recommend an impact gun.. tighten the puller til it pops the clutch off.. (use a bit grease on threads and tip of puller) If no gun then use a breaker bar and tighten then tap the head of the puller and it will eventually pop off.. loosen and tighten a few times may be necessary.
5) Now on the bench put the seconadary clutch on a roll of duct tape. Remove the 3 nuts on the roller cover. Be careful the spring will have side and in and out pressure.. Now its off... replace the helix with new one.. replace the spring , by putting the end in the hole in the clutch first.. Then line the other end of the spring up in the middle hole of the cover. You will need to twist the cover about 30-60 degrees clockwise, so the spring has tension and lines up with the studs now. Put nuts on and slowly tighten each one seperately.
6) That ones done.
7) Primary now, on the bench remove the 6 or 9 bolts. Be careful again, the spring tension is strong on some.
8) Take off cover, mark, or note or find the alignment dots.. so you know to put the cover on the same way.
9) Remove spring
10) Loosen the 3 bolts to the cam arms .. slide out bolts.
11) Take shims and arms out.. Put the new arm in place.. start the bolt, while sliding the shims in position, on each side of cam arm.
12) Tighten cam arm nut and bolt using red loctite, just a tiny bit.. and not too tight. just til the bolt stops spinning in clutch freely.
13) Repeat for other cam arms.
14) Replace spring, seated properly, and line up cover correctly. Trick for this , put that duct tape roll in between the clutch to hold the clutch open, and while pushing in the center of the cover, start each cover bolt.
15) Now tighten the cover bolts slowly and evenly. til tight
16) Both clutches are ready to install again.
17) Slide secondary clutch on greased jackshaft and replace all washers, spacers etc.. and snug up..
18) Put primary on crankshaft and torque to 55 ft lbs.
19) Replace belt.. and lift sled and run it through its shift.. look for binding, and clutch jumping.. if so replace belt and try again. never look directly over the clutches.
20) RIP IT UP...

I may have missed some tricks, that I just do unconsciously. I will update as I remember or post some of your own tricks here.

If you don't feel comfortable, please don't attempt this. This is only some general information.

The Outdoor Shop Inc.

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post #2 of 61 Old 11-10-2003, 09:11 PM
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Good stuff Dan

Great Lakes make Great Snow!
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post #3 of 61 Old 11-10-2003, 09:23 PM
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tightening the secondary spring raises shift rpm and loosening will lower
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post #4 of 61 Old 11-10-2003, 09:33 PM
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Ok, here's ...

During re-assembly of the secondary...

Tighten helix hex bolts till they snug right up, but only finger tight. But not tightened to spec...

Continue to finish putting the secondary together.

Once you have the roller cover bolts done, install the clutch on the jackshaft, and completely open & close the the clutch. This action will center the helix with the rest of the clutch as a complete assembly.

Then tighten the helix hex bolts to spec.

This helps maintain even roller pressure on the helix faces. Better parallelity between the clutch faces too. Longer roller lifespan too.

Also, you can double-bush the secondary clutch if you like. Two bushings in the inside are a little bigger than the clutch, so you can let the extra 1/8" or so stick out towards the engine side. You don't want the extra bit on the inside because it will prevent your clutch from closing.

Check to make sure they don't hit the floating washers (engine side) when the clutch is fully opened. If it does, you can take off the extra bushing material or make the washers smaller (OD).

Same thing on the roller cover. You can use two bushings, let the extra bit stick out away from the clutch towards the belly pan, and make sure it clears the washer at the end of the shaft. Pain in the butt though, for taking the roll pins out of the cover to change the rollers, so drill holes in the extra bushing in advance. You'll know what I mean if you have a look at it.

Double bushings in the secondary helps the faces stay parallel longer because the clearance stays smaller so much longer between the shaft & bushing. It also makes the clutch feel like it's 10 times more responsive because the pressure of the belt pulling the clutch against the jackshaft is cut in half due to twice the surface area of contact. So it slides waaaay easier!

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post #5 of 61 Old 11-10-2003, 09:50 PM
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Sled: 2 04f7EFI 1 04 f7CARB 1ren 600sdiDoo
For cleaning your clutch I find nothing better to get belt off clutches is starting fluid. Has no oil base and leaves clutch clean and dry. I beleave you should run a clutch dry and nothing will cling to it .Doesnt shorten life of clutch and stops it from build up and sticking.Put 3800 miles on last winter and no extra wear with it dry.
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post #6 of 61 Old 11-11-2003, 06:15 AM
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thanks dan, I think I will have to give it a try...

~Mike #177
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post #7 of 61 Old 11-11-2003, 08:22 AM
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AG good point on the helix. I was going to post that. Also you may want to put some never seize on the crank end before you put the primary clutch back.
I usually scribe the primary cover so I remember where to position it. You may also slide the primary cover on without the spring to check the bushing slop.
Sometimes you may have a hell of a time removing the secondary on older sleds that have not been removed for a few years.
Also the primary clutch may require some heavy blows to the clutch removal tool end with a lead hammer. Keep turning then hit, turn then hit.
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post #8 of 61 Old 11-11-2003, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Just so you guys do know.. I was gonna put all this stuff, then some.. But wanted to leave this open for more responses.. then maybe I will cut and paste all together, so people could print the facts???

like you should check center to centers, and offset, both with the tools, but most people don't have them..

I like the responses, keep posting !!!, it will be great for newbie installers.. Cat Dancin'

The Outdoor Shop Inc.

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post #9 of 61 Old 11-11-2003, 10:15 AM
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Originally posted by The Outdoor Shop@Nov 11 2003, 10:37 AM
like you should check center to centers, and offset, both with the tools, but most people don't have them..
Well I'm new to cat this yr so I don't have the cat clutch tools , so how about a "cat clutch " package deal ? clutch kit , puller, offset and center to center tool
and maybe even a torque limiter deflection adjuster
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post #10 of 61 Old 11-11-2003, 12:34 PM
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Dan, AG, great info guys! Only thing I see controversial is the use of an impact gun. I always use an impact gun myself to pull the clutch but I've heard others warn against it saying it could "twist" the crank. Any thoughts on that or anybody have a bad experience using a impact gun? cold1 aka catman
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