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Old 04-03-2011, 11:27 PM   #1
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DIY Valve adjustment tool

Just got a 2006 AC 400 auto and wanted to check the valves. I could get at the intake valves by just removing the storage compartment and steering cover, but had to remove the body panels to get at the exhaust valves. It worked, but was a royal PITA. Is there a quick and easy way to remove the body panels? Do you leave front and back attached?

With regards to adjusting the valves: I found that a standard Roberts square head (# 2 I believe) fits the adjuster nut precisely. I made my own valve adjuster tool by screwing a metal screw in a small 1/4 socket (used a 4.5 mm I never use). Used a standard 8mm wrench on the lock nut and held the adjuster screw with my new tool. DIY Valve adjustment tool-valve-tool2.jpg
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:33 PM   #2
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You take the front and back apart and the front fender can be turned sideways and lift over the handle bars. Usually a good idea to have someone give you a hand with this as it can be tricky but once you do it once its a piece of cake!!
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Old 04-04-2011, 04:01 AM   #3
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pretty darn good man,it would be even better if you could get like a small T handled piece that could go in it. 1.5-2" or somthing
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:42 AM   #4
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im assuming its just a small screw in there and u can still attach it to the extender and put it on a ratchet?
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Old 04-04-2011, 03:00 PM   #5
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Correct; this is a metal screw with #2 Roberts (square head) jammed into a small 1/4 socket. I used a 4.5 mm I had laying around, but any small size will do. I did have to grind the tip of the screw off so I could still attach the extension bar/ratchet/T-handle to the socket. You need a screw and socket that are small enough to turn inside the 8mm wrench used to loosen the locknut.

A fancier option would be to get a longer bolt with the same head and weld a cross bar to it (or simply bend the end 90 degrees like an Allen key).

Back to removing the body panels: what is the trick to get at the 3 bolts on each side that hold the front and rear together? On mine the Torx heads are on the inside and there is very little clearance between the frame and the heads.
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:15 PM   #6
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pictures of the factory tool

http://www.arcticchat.com/forum/perf...ml#post2035690
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:17 PM   #7
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ya it would be pretty cool to have like a 1.5" T handle with a couple tack welds or somthing,nice and compact. ya an allen type bend that would definately work good too. im definately makin one.i finally have a little project for my welding class tomorrow night,nicee
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:55 PM   #8
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I use a 1/4 extension bar and T-handle on my socket. With a T-bar it is pretty easy to see how far you rotate. Put a piece of electrical tape on one end so you can count turns. The factory tool has marks for every 1/8 turn; this is easily copied with my tool. Each mark is 0.05 mm.
Factory tool is +/- $ 80, mine will cost you a $0.10 metal screw.....

According to the manual on my 400 the intake valves should be set at 0.05-0.1 mm so between 1/8 -1/4 turn and the exhaust at 0.22-0.27 mm so 5/8 of a turn. I still like to check with a feeler gauge afterwards.
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Old 04-04-2011, 09:30 PM   #9
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pretty dam good man,that was a good find.make alot of lives easier
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