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post #1 of 8 Old 03-11-2011, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Headlights

I have a 09 550 ATV that the headlights stopped working. I checked the fuses and they are fine. Only has 40 miles on it....any suggestions?
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post #2 of 8 Old 03-11-2011, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty41 View Post
I have a 09 550 ATV that the headlights stopped working. I checked the fuses and they are fine. Only has 40 miles on it....any suggestions?
high or low won't work??

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post #3 of 8 Old 03-11-2011, 11:38 PM
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there is two fuses one for low one for high at least on my 400 there is. Now if the fuses are still good i would check to make sure your key switch is working right and providing power down the line.

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post #4 of 8 Old 03-12-2011, 04:00 AM
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as nwn said check the key switch, follow to the relay, then to the headlight connecters etc, i know u said that u checked the fuses but how did u check? just get a visual that the metal is connected in the middle? anways what i do to check if my fuse is dead is i take a peice of speaker wire and connect it where the fuse goes if it works then the fuse is dead.

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post #5 of 8 Old 03-12-2011, 07:22 AM
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as nwn said check the key switch, follow to the relay, then to the headlight connecters etc, i know u said that u checked the fuses but how did u check? just get a visual that the metal is connected in the middle? anways what i do to check if my fuse is dead is i take a peice of speaker wire and connect it where the fuse goes if it works then the fuse is dead.
Not always a good idea! If there is a dead short somewhere in the system you are going to fry something ,that is why there is a fuse to protect things. Use a powered tester set on ohms for resistance and check for conductivity on the fuses.Sometime they break where you can't see it.

Dynojet/142m/45p/3rd/3turns--Clipped and drilled--Unifilter--Easy adjust PMS--L.C.V. mod--AC Swaybar--Exhaust mod--2"Snorkels--Sanny shock bushings-- Airdam stage 1--PSC phase 2--21/ 23gr rollers--Dalton yellow spring--.7mm shim--Sanny Steerlites--RTR Flex Bracket--2 up seat / pegs--Tach--AC handguards--28" Outlaw mst's--Skull tailight--Skull shifter--Self Resetting Breakers--1" Wheel spacers--Customcncparts Steering Damper--AC deluxe handwarmers--6000k HID'S hi/lo--AC Deluxe Bumpers--Inline Fuel Filter-- O2 sensor \AFR guage--Black Magic Full Stainless Exhaust System--Wireless Winch Remote--29.5 Outlaws--Fox Podium X Rear Shocks--
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-12-2011, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by doorfx View Post
Not always a good idea! If there is a dead short somewhere in the system you are going to fry something ,that is why there is a fuse to protect things. Use a powered tester set on ohms for resistance and check for conductivity on the fuses.Sometime they break where you can't see it.

do ^^^^^^^ it the only real way to check a fuse LOL and its faster


yep some times a fuse will blow and you cant see it



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post #7 of 8 Old 03-12-2011, 08:28 PM
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I always take my test light and run all the fuses in place, if theres power on both sides of the fuse from the top it's good.

Plus I can check every fuse in the panel in a few seconds.

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post #8 of 8 Old 03-12-2011, 08:35 PM
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like rapier said: You can also take a continuity tester and check each fuse that way. How ever that takes alot of time. Or replace all fuses with type 1 breakers.

Cat #1
Used for work "farming" "cutting wood" and play

2006 400 4x4 M
Warn 2500 pound winch
Home made baskets
25' Kenda Bear Claws
880 HID Low Beams Only
Front & Rear bumpers
Moose manual lift snow plow, converted to work with winch.
Electric seeder / salt spreader
Rear Hooks for log chains
Custom built railroad tie drag
Home made fence stretching attachments
-------
To Do List
Reverse Cam, Camber Mod

Cat #2
2006 400 4x4 Auto VP - Stock

Cat #3
08 700h1 -Stock
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