General ATV Discussion Discussion Forum for Arctic Cat ATVs

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Old 10-13-2010, 04:16 PM   #11
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Thanks for the help wyo_h1_cat, (LOVE THE SLEDGE HAMMER TO THE 4 WHEELER IDEA ABOUT NOW) I will make sure to line up the non existant marks before I attempt to adjust the valves. I like the mirror idea but I took the 4 bolts off and got rid of the exhaust in the way. I have not had time to get back at it recently, but the new tires arrived and are awesome. I am also doing the oil change, lube, diff change, alignment, arrestor and plug while it's laid up. Feeling like I bit off more than I can chew with the valves right now, but when I accomplish it, and need to, I will be able to take care of it myself from now on thanks to the help I receive here from all you guys. And oh yea, ricktherocket get that thing out and get it dirty please, makes mine look like a Kia. Great looking machine sir (show bike).
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Old 10-13-2010, 04:39 PM   #12
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
 Quote:
I will make sure to line up the non existant marks before I attempt to adjust the valves.[/b]
The timing mark is usually a Faint stamping on the rim of the flywheel. Should be there (grin) Wonder if it missing from the factory? Don't know, The timing mark is aligned when the piston is top dead center on the compression stroke. I had a motorcycle that did not have any type of timing marks on the fly-wheel and one determined TDC by inserting a plunger gauge into the spark plug hole. however I'm not sure that could be done with the angled plug hole on the 375 cc engine.

Attaching a picture of the timing mark from my 650, (A thin scribed line, the wide line is just camera flash glare) looked the same on my old 02 400 manual. The bright light from the camera flash makes it look a lot more prominent then it really is.
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Valve lash-timing_mark_on_top_dead_center.jpg  
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:29 PM   #13
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Oh Man....my job sent me out of town for a couple weeks right after I tore into my Cat 375 and was adjusting valves. Came home and barely remembered anything about putting it back together, but I did it !! Thanks again guys for all the help. I did finally find the tdc and my timing mark when I turned it with the pull rope off, got the valves all set. Now the gas is pouring out of the bottom of the carburetor and it will not start, just my luck. I followed the instructions for taking apart the carb and cleaning everything by soaking the parts overnight in carb cleaner and then blowing everything out with my air compressor. Put everything back together and it does the same thing. Gas comes straight out the very center of the bowl, out the small hole onto the ground, Float sticking? I inspected it and it did not have fuel in it and it looked brand new. Any suggestions any1? Thanks ahead of time, Tom.

Can't wait to get this done and I'll show you a plain jane 375 cat with new tires, oil, plug, diff fluid, alignment, etc.. Might even take it to the car wash ....................lol
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:44 PM   #14
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There is a needle valve controlled by the float, chances are there is a bit of crud in the valve seat that is preventing the needle valve from closing once the float bowl is full. Either that or you forgot to replace/ tighten the float bowl drain screw, drain and overflow come out the same port.
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Troubleshooting First Steps, An amazing number of problems are cured with just these two items.

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2. Try a new spark plug.

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http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...._Diagrams.html

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Better results when searching for specific information. To find threads where ALL the words, instead of ANY of the words "650H1, Carb, Jetting, Needle Jet, Snorkel" were found...Open up a search window in www.google.com In the find box type without the quotes "650H1 Carb Jetting Needle Jet Snorkel site:Arcticchat.com" & Press return. Find threads, replies or topics by a specific member; just by inserting their user name into the search list; Chances are, your problem is NOT unique and it has been solved many times before.

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Old 11-01-2010, 05:45 PM   #15
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There is a needle valve controlled by the float, chances are there is a bit of crud in the valve seat that is preventing the needle valve from closing once the float bowl is full. Either that or you forgot to replace/ tighten the float bowl drain screw, drain and overflow come out the same port.

in the future, when adjusting valves, remove the rope starter housing and turn over with a wrench, much better control then just pulling on the rope
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Have a Problem?

Troubleshooting First Steps, An amazing number of problems are cured with just these two items.

1. Make sure your battery is FULLY Charged.
2. Try a new spark plug.

Search threads, Check Pinned Section. Pinned Topics Manual or wiring diagram? Manuals
http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...._Diagrams.html

Improving Search.

Better results when searching for specific information. To find threads where ALL the words, instead of ANY of the words "650H1, Carb, Jetting, Needle Jet, Snorkel" were found...Open up a search window in www.google.com In the find box type without the quotes "650H1 Carb Jetting Needle Jet Snorkel site:Arcticchat.com" & Press return. Find threads, replies or topics by a specific member; just by inserting their user name into the search list; Chances are, your problem is NOT unique and it has been solved many times before.

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Old 11-01-2010, 06:03 PM   #16
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Thanks, will have to check it out tomorrow, the sun is setting and the garage is a mess. It's on the honey do list tho......
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:59 PM   #17
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Well, what a bummer, I went and bought a new needle and seat at Arctic Cat and came home and cleaned carb again by soaking it in carb clener. Then blew all lines and jet areas out and especially where the seat goes in, them re-installed carb. It is still leaking out the bottom of the carb and the drain screw is tight.
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