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Old 08-12-2010, 04:16 PM   #1
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Having my 5th Arctic Cat, I am close to being a pro at changing bushings, but

I have to change a whell bearing again on the left rear wheel. So I decided to change them all every 2 years. Now is the question. This afternoon, i tried to loosen the nut on the end of the axel. That friggin thing is there pretty tight. So before I get knee deep in something it would be better to take to the dealer to have done.

After I loosen that nut, will it be a pain to remove the clip and the bearing? How do I go about chnaging that thing....?
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Old 08-12-2010, 04:39 PM   #2
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Honestly best way to remove the axle nut is a quality impact...Some have luck with a big Johnston bar and a piece of strong pipe but i just leave it to the Ingersoll rand titanium... After that there easy to do if the c clips are stuck hit them with penetrating oil like liquid wrench or something and let em sit. Then hammer out the old bearings, freeze the new ones and throw the hub in the oven or bbq to heat her up and they will drop in very easy job.
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Old 08-12-2010, 04:53 PM   #3
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Check this post in Performance / Technical section from May 12, 2010

"Wheel bearings and seals "how to"?, Couldn't find anything"

The hub nut is torqued to around 200 ft lbs. so it can be hard to loosen without an impact gun (30 mm socket or 1-3/16")

Some good tips in this post.

Don't beat on the bearings when installing them.

It helps if you have retaining ring pliers to get the circlip out but you can dig it out with an awl as well (wear gloves).

If you don't have a torque wrench, mark the hub, CV shaft and the nut so you can put it back it the same place when tightening.

Other than that, it's a pretty simple job.
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Old 08-14-2010, 07:25 AM   #4
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The topic is located here.

http://www.arcticchat.com/forums/index.php...;hl=hub+bearing


I just completed replacing all four of my bearings using the ideas in this topic. I do not have an impact wrench so I went with a 24 inch breaker bar. I gave the hub nut a shot of WD-40 and let it sit a few min. then used the breaker bar to break it loose. (after removing the cotter pin of course) Practically had to stand on the thing to break them loose but I figure the years of rust and crud probably contributed to it. (I broke an 18 inch breaker bar, so I went for the 24 inch one)

I had no issues removing the C-clips holding the bearings in. I did as the topic said and put the new bearings in the freezer. Using the 30mm socket I pounded out the old bearing. (Like Sanny, I have no press either) I cleaned the inside of the hub with some scotch-brite and gave it a light coat of WD-40. Grabbed the new bearing and quickly placed it in position. I tapped it in flush with a hammer and small piece of wood as to not mar up the new bearing. Then placed the old bearing on top of the new one and tapped it down seating it. I did not heat up the hub but that probably would have worked as well, but in my case, they went in pretty good without getting jammed.

I don't also have a torque wrench so I just tightened the hub nut good until the hole lined up and put a new cotter pin in place. I figured it shouldn't loosen up anyway since the cotter will keep it in place.

I purchased OEM bearings, $35 each from the dealer. I figure with the long life I got out of them (4,000 miles of NEPA terrain) I wasn't messing with aftermarket ones.

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Old 08-26-2010, 12:36 PM   #5
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I need to change my front left wheel bearing. Just wondering if anybody knows of an aftermarket wheel bearing that will fit?

Its ~$32 but the cat dealer is a good hour away from me, so i was hoping i could find an aftermarket one at UAP/NAPA dealer locally or other bearing shops in town.

[attachment=156474:wheel_bearing.JPG]

I got the parts breakdown off of brownsleisureworld.com and part 18 has pt # 1402-027 ($49.99), but when i clicked on it, it says part replaced by pt# 1402-809 (seen on the bottom of the pic for $32.95). Can someone confirm 1402-809 is the correct part?

thanks in advance
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:31 PM   #6
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I was looking for somewhere to get replacement wheel bearings as I ride a lot of water and soupy mud.

I spent quite a bit of time searching and could only find two manufacturers of this bearing.

I think I heard that AC changed it's supplier from KOYO (Japan) to KML (China). All Balls are KML bearings. I tried them but the seals were NFG. They were full of mud after about 300 miles.

You can get the KOYO bearings (which came original on my '07 500) from Canadian Bearing for $25.00 CDN ea. A way better price than the AC dealers and have good seals.

Any local bearing supplier should be able to order these for you.

PN DAC3055W for either the koyO'S OR KML'sS
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Old 08-26-2010, 02:54 PM   #7
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greatly appreciated fossil! I'll inquire about those and let you know how i make out
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