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Old 05-24-2009, 09:11 AM   #1
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ATV: 2007 400 4X4 LE, 2010 366 4X4 SE
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Yesterday on a long ride (89 miles which is long for this area) my machine started acting funny. It would run normally, but after stopping then trying to restart it it was hard starting and the engine would sputter, blow black smoke and run crappy. It would clear up after about 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Its acting like the choke is stuck open, but my cat (a 2007 400 4X4 LE) does not have a choke lever. The fan seemed to be running quite a bit even after stopping with the engine off. I was not in any mud, but trail riding, no big hills or mud bogs. I checked the fan while it was running and it was blowing good air so I don't think the radiator is blocked. I never saw a temp waring on the pod and it was about 75 degrees out and cloudy (not riding in hot weather)

By the time I was ready to load on the trailer, it was really hard starting and I noticed gasoline under the instrument pod!

I did notice a gas smell everytime I tried to start it when it was acting up. The whole morning it ran flawless. Any ideas what could be going on with it? I have now 1989 miles on it.

Mike
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Old 05-24-2009, 01:57 PM   #2
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when i work mine real hard and fan runs alot crawlin stuck and stuff, seems gas boils in the float bowl and creates vapor lock when you shut it off then start back up. it'll start fine then you hit gas to go it takes off then says bluhhhhhhhhh, hard to start back, then you gotta rev in nuetral a second to get gas pumped back in bowl and clear out. smell gas from under pod whenever it's hot, pukes a little sometimes. same problem right? there's two vent lines from top of the carb and tank that go to pod that's where the smell and puking comes in. always done it since new, heard others complain but not everybody, not just 400 either.

fixes i've found, mod the exhaust it backs up and holds heat bad, cloth heat tape on headpipe helps some, snorks even stealth ones for the cold air seem to help, JETTING they come lean my dealer said it could use a jet kit and some carb tricks when i got it "i'll never know it wont affect warranty" wink wink he said. air cooled motors are cooled by jetting somewhat, kinda like a rc nitro motor. i use a point and shoot laser digital temp guage from harbor freight $40 when jetting along with feel and checking the plug. since all the mods in the last couple months i've got pipe temps down a bunch, head temp is still up a little with biggest jet in dj kit i got bigger stock jets from jetsrus to try still. about 20 degrees above stock with much more power might be as good as it gets now. you got side shields i dont so my pipe burns my leg(or did) taking them off might help. i wanna run my vents from pod to snorks but not to get gas in the face, some extend those lines with loops then leave in pod might help puking bit might trap gas in line hurting venting. since mods i can work it alot harder without fan coming onand when we ran a hard trail that always vapor locked when we stopped in the middle the fan ran a few seconds and stopped no smell no vapor lock. have had smell spinning hard stuck then shutting off but no more vapor lock. if i have any problem once it's real hot this summer i'm gonna look at a heatshield for carb.
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06 400 Auto
07 sidepanels
2 sets 5000k HID's
27-10-12 27-12-12 Maxxis Mudbugs on stock steel wheels
a few fender washers per stud on front and 1 1/2" wheelspacers on rear
EBC solid rotors and sv pads
EPI wet springs
EPI secondary spring reclocked 90
primary machined 1.5mm by ///AIRDAM
1.2mm shim in primary
2" snorkels
UNI filter
Dynojet kit
Yost idle mixture screw
slide drilled and spring clipped
exhaust mod (swiss cheese can with 2" outlet) and pipe wrapped
diamond plate rear inner fenders
sanny shock bushings
wyo's caster mod (2 degrees steers great)

01 raptor <strike>660</strike> 719
stock rear shock and swingarm
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Old 05-24-2009, 04:10 PM   #3
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My quad does not have a float bowl as the gas tank is in the rear and under the seat is the pump.
This morning after sitting all night, it fired up just fine, like nothing happened. I cleaned them off (they were not really dirty) and checked out the radiator good. I didn't see anything obstructing it.

Talking with a friend this morning he seems to think something in the carb is sticking and thats why it spit gas. Sounds like it is just due for a tune up as I am real close to 2000 miles on it and the only valve adjustment I had was the initial service. I was told by the dealer they don't need them much until something starts acting up. This may be the case now.

I also popped open the air box and the filter was not bad. some dirt, but far from being clogged. The ride yesterday was not too dusty as it had rained there a day or two prior.

Presumably this machine has an automatic choke. Could that be sticking open when its hot since the symptoms of the engine seems like an open choke.

Mike
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Old 05-24-2009, 06:52 PM   #4
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it could very well be your auto choke sticking , That being said i had a simular problem on my 04 650 le but i had winter jets wich was feeding to much gas for the summer and fouled out my spark plugs , So i changed my jets to summer and it still was hard to start and ran terriable!!!!
So i changed out my spark plugs and bam was riding wheelings in a heart beat , Not one studder started so easy etc etc .
So try new plugs you may have them fouled out , Even if your auto choke is the culprit i would say it fouled your plug or plugs as well
hope this helps
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Old 05-24-2009, 09:36 PM   #5
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listen carefully your float bowl is on the bottom of your carb. your quad is the exact same as mine. you had vapor lock. it is not your choke. 400's are air cooled and get hot sometimes. i ride very hard so i have had this problem more. jetting is the first place to start. i was workin it hard to get threw just two mudholes for 45 minutes today high throttle not moving, the fan never came on. what i told you is the cures. i will post pics so you see how stuck i was and eventully rode out.
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06 400 Auto
07 sidepanels
2 sets 5000k HID's
27-10-12 27-12-12 Maxxis Mudbugs on stock steel wheels
a few fender washers per stud on front and 1 1/2" wheelspacers on rear
EBC solid rotors and sv pads
EPI wet springs
EPI secondary spring reclocked 90
primary machined 1.5mm by ///AIRDAM
1.2mm shim in primary
2" snorkels
UNI filter
Dynojet kit
Yost idle mixture screw
slide drilled and spring clipped
exhaust mod (swiss cheese can with 2" outlet) and pipe wrapped
diamond plate rear inner fenders
sanny shock bushings
wyo's caster mod (2 degrees steers great)

01 raptor <strike>660</strike> 719
stock rear shock and swingarm
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:54 PM   #6
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ATV: 06 400 Auto
2009 Mileage: 300
2008 Mileage: 400
2007 Mileage: 400
2006 Mileage: 600
to add for anyone having 400 heat issue's the restrictive stock exhaust is what hold heat in the most imo, my biggest cooling gains were in th ex, the more you mod the cooler it'll run with proper jetting. the jetting is lean stock, a dj needle is way better than a stock shim job, you'll have to increase pilot and main to compensate for it. the biggest jetting gains are in the dj needle as thats where most throttle is used when riding, i could feel the temp drop going from 4 to 5 on mine.

and mikeexplorer if you still dont believe me just get a temp gun and point it around, you'll see.
[attachment=128716:digital_temp.jpg]
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Hard starting and sputtering-digital_temp.jpg  
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06 400 Auto
07 sidepanels
2 sets 5000k HID's
27-10-12 27-12-12 Maxxis Mudbugs on stock steel wheels
a few fender washers per stud on front and 1 1/2" wheelspacers on rear
EBC solid rotors and sv pads
EPI wet springs
EPI secondary spring reclocked 90
primary machined 1.5mm by ///AIRDAM
1.2mm shim in primary
2" snorkels
UNI filter
Dynojet kit
Yost idle mixture screw
slide drilled and spring clipped
exhaust mod (swiss cheese can with 2" outlet) and pipe wrapped
diamond plate rear inner fenders
sanny shock bushings
wyo's caster mod (2 degrees steers great)

01 raptor <strike>660</strike> 719
stock rear shock and swingarm
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Old 05-25-2009, 06:45 PM   #7
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good ole indy huh ?
i was born and raised on the south side of indy
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:51 PM   #8
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raised in mooresville then went west for the country
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06 400 Auto
07 sidepanels
2 sets 5000k HID's
27-10-12 27-12-12 Maxxis Mudbugs on stock steel wheels
a few fender washers per stud on front and 1 1/2" wheelspacers on rear
EBC solid rotors and sv pads
EPI wet springs
EPI secondary spring reclocked 90
primary machined 1.5mm by ///AIRDAM
1.2mm shim in primary
2" snorkels
UNI filter
Dynojet kit
Yost idle mixture screw
slide drilled and spring clipped
exhaust mod (swiss cheese can with 2" outlet) and pipe wrapped
diamond plate rear inner fenders
sanny shock bushings
wyo's caster mod (2 degrees steers great)

01 raptor <strike>660</strike> 719
stock rear shock and swingarm
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Old 05-26-2009, 05:19 AM   #9
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2009 Mileage: 1900
2008 Mileage: 1100
2007 Mileage: 400
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Indiana Mudcat @ May 24 2009, 10:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
 Quote:
listen carefully your float bowl is on the bottom of your carb. your quad is the exact same as mine. you had vapor lock. it is not your choke. 400's are air cooled and get hot sometimes. i ride very hard so i have had this problem more. jetting is the first place to start. i was workin it hard to get threw just two mudholes for 45 minutes today high throttle not moving, the fan never came on. what i told you is the cures. i will post pics so you see how stuck i was and eventully rode out.[/b]

I have never really done any engine work so that is why I am asking question. On Sunday after taking the quads off the trailer and cleaning them, I changed the plug and it was carbon fouled.
I will look again for the float bowl to see it. I thought it did not have one since I have no gas valve (on-off-reserve) and my tank is in the rear of the quad. but what you say makes sense and explains why it spit gas, it would be the overflow from the bowl burping onto the pod, therefore the gas.

I took it for another ride on Monday. Still noticing the fan running more then it should. I did not have any hard starts but sometimes taking off after starting it, it sputtered. After about 15 seconds, it cleared up and ran fine. The one time I stopped it and the fan was not running, it started and took off just fine. SO that leads me to think its heat related.

I thought my machine was oil cooled? I see a radiator and hoses in and out of it and it does take nearly 4 quarts on an oil change. I am thinking there is junk in the radiator and I cannot see it. It looks like I can take the covers off it without taking the front plastics off. I think that is where I need to look next.

I have ridden in similar conditions last year and year before and never had this issue. SO I don't think I was putting it under anything unusual as far as riding goes.

Mike
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:56 AM   #10
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it's air cooled with an oil cooler to help, yes if the oil coolers plugged it'll get hotter, also some early 07 models had the inner fenders like the 06 models, they held heat in and were recalled(06 didn't have the side engine covers 07 got em) if you have the big inner fenders remove them. just trying to help, i've abused mine very hard and brought out the problems. a dj jet kit will help and removing the sparky "sparky mod" helps a bunch to reduce backpressure. those two mods will increase performance and run cooler.
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06 400 Auto
07 sidepanels
2 sets 5000k HID's
27-10-12 27-12-12 Maxxis Mudbugs on stock steel wheels
a few fender washers per stud on front and 1 1/2" wheelspacers on rear
EBC solid rotors and sv pads
EPI wet springs
EPI secondary spring reclocked 90
primary machined 1.5mm by ///AIRDAM
1.2mm shim in primary
2" snorkels
UNI filter
Dynojet kit
Yost idle mixture screw
slide drilled and spring clipped
exhaust mod (swiss cheese can with 2" outlet) and pipe wrapped
diamond plate rear inner fenders
sanny shock bushings
wyo's caster mod (2 degrees steers great)

01 raptor <strike>660</strike> 719
stock rear shock and swingarm
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