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Old 03-23-2009, 08:37 PM   #1
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Sled: 2010 CF 800 HO SP
10-11 Mileage: 2000+
09-10 Mileage: 2700
08-09 Mileage: 3000+
07-08 Mileage: 3500
06-07 Mileage: 3000
I wrote this to save time as I switch to a 2" paddle when I ride in the west and back to the ripper when I ride the midwest. It takes me 2-1/2 hrs. You will need the special socket to remove the nut that holds the brake rotor disc on to be sure its properly torqued, but I have a friend who uses a large brass punch to remove and install it. I use a step ladder that I hang the rear of the sled from with an adjusable strap so I can raise and lower it.

#1. Support the rear of the sled taking the weight off but not lifting it.
#2. Loosen the track as loose as it will go and remove the 4 rear suspension bolts. leave
the suspension in the track.
#3. Lock the brake and keep it locked.
#4. Remove the driven clutch.
#5. Remove the two allen bolts on the brake caliper and remove the speedo senser.
Do not remove the two allen bolts that hold the caliper together.
#6. Remove the brake rotor disc nut with the special socket.
#7. From the brake side with a 5/8" socket on a long extension loosen the bolt way inside the
drive shaft 1/4 inch but don't remove it as you may need to tap on it later to get
the gear case loose.
#8. Remove the 8 T-20 torx head bolts and the two covers that surround the electric
reverse motor.
#9. Remove all the 1/2" bolts that hold the gear case and reverse motor to the tunnel.
#10.Remove the 1 T-30 torx bolt that holds the reverse motor to the gear case, unplug the
electrical and pull the motor back out of the way and leave it setting there.
#11.Take a hammer and long spacer to tap on the bolt left in step #7 to loosen the gear
case (if it doesn't come by hand) and remove the inner drive shaft bolt left in (#7).
#12.Remove the gear case - Do not move the reverse gear shaft position on the gear case!
#13.Lift the rear of the sled high for working room, slack up and free the loose track
from the drive shaft.
#14.With a hammer and a block of wood, drive the drive shaft though the brake disc.
Make sure it does not bind against the track. Pay attention to the washers and water
sling-er that may be on the the drive shaft on either side and remove the drive shaft
through the tunnel. If there is any corrosion build up on it that made it hard to
slide out, clean or buff it off.
#15.Pull the track out the rear (with the suspension in it) clear of the machine, flip it
on it's side and lift the track off.
#16.Put the new track over just where you lifted the old one off (line it up for correct
rotation), flip it back and slide it back under the sled.
#17.Making sure you have the drive shaft with its water slingers and possible washers on
it,- insert it back through just as it came out. There is a spacer between the tunnel
and the brake disc that can slide out of place. Look for it through the brake disc
to make sure it is lined up before you slide the drive shaft through.
#18.Continue to reverse the steps (from #12) above to re-assemble with the notes below.
-use anti-seize on the drive shaft splines and brake rotor nut and use loctite on
the 5/8" bolt inside the drive shaft
-Torque in ft-lbs; inner drive shaft bolt-70, brake rotor nut-120, driven pulley-32,
speed sensor bolts-17.
-When installing the suspension, put the front bolts in first (it helps to have a 2x4
under the track to lift and line up the holes. Once the front bolts are in, let the
rear of the sled down to line up the rear suspension bolts. The suspension will be
back a little from lining up with the holes. Using a ratchet strap placed around the
rear springs on one end and using the center shock as a guide of which direction to
line it up to pull, wrap the other end around another suspension piece so that when
you tighten the ratchet strap, it compresses the shock and suspension in, making it
simple to line up the bolt holes. Do this for each side.
-When adjusting the track, I've found it is not necessary to run the machine to spin
the track. Simply spin it a full rotation as fast as you can using the driven
pulley.
Tighten the side that has too much track over lap to center. A 136" Crossfires track
defection is 2 - 2 1/4" at 20 lbs. (20 lbs is the average mans index finger
strength).
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:13 PM   #2
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Good article, should help alot of people out. I would ike to add that you can cut a bunch of time and hassle by not removing the nut from the brake side or the shaft from the sled. This will prevent you from having to worry about freeing the tight fitting shaft from the bearing and all that goes with it including torquing etc. It helps if you have a hoist like I use but I am sure you could do without it...We have them down to 45 minutes to an hour with 2 guys that know what they are doing. Real life is an hour or 2 with beer breaks and the usual maintenance involved when you have the skid out (slides bogeys etc.). We've swapped up to 2.25 tracks in and out of M's and crossfires with extros often, here is a front view of one we did putting a cut down challenger back on an M for flatland use. You just slide the shaft as far in as possible and angle it down to let the track off the end of it.
Also, we've killed ourselves for years with the ratchet strap method for getting the rear holes to line up. Now we just take off the lower spring mounts on the rails (torsion spring sleds) which allows the entire rear scissor to move freely and re attach them when the skid is bolted in the sled. Or, on float equipped skids, just let the air out of the air shock and the back arm will be loosey goosey. Pump it back up (I use shop air to save time and finish with the hand pump).
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