Like lvr1000 said, it ain't easy. However, it can be done, if you have the mechanical ability. If you're gonna work on these, you should get a factory repair manual cd. Landlocked26 was selling them for around $25.
Back to the plugs, if you do feel the need to change them, I'd go with the iridium plugs. The 08s and newer were fitted with these. I put a set in mine last year, though I didn't notice a difference. They're supposed to start better in very cold temps.
If you have over, or close to, 5,000 miles I would recommend the valve check. I started a thread on this recently, there's some info. from several people there.
(If you lived a bit closer, I'd be able to help a bit)